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Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
#1 2017-05-11 3:59pm
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Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
Hi guys,
Just a looking for a little advice: I've finally received the cranks for my master. When installing, I realized I can't get a perfectly aligned chainline. Looks like I should 'push' the chainwheel/crank or 'pull' the freewheel. Couldn't measure how much accurately, but I'm guessing 2-4mm.
The thing is, I can't push the spindle and chainwheel further, since the BB comes with locking collars (YST sealed bearing conversion kit). Should I add spacers on the freewheel? Use it without one of the collars?
Any input appreciated!
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#2 2017-05-11 4:31pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
Sorry for the double post, but pics aren't showing properly.
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#3 2017-05-11 4:31pm
- Indyjps
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
Cant see your pics, is the chainring tight against the locking collar?
Im guessing youre using the square taper sealed american bottom bracket.
See them now. Id get the locking collar cut down on thickness. Is the square taper even seating all the way?
Youve got a little room to shim the freewheel.
Last edited by Indyjps (2017-05-11 4:34pm)
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#4 2017-05-11 4:34pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
Indyjps wrote:
Cant see your pics, is the chainring tight against the locking collar?
Im guessing youre using the square taper sealed american bottom bracket.
yup, just uploaded them somewhere else.
I'm using this YST square taper sealed BB:
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#5 2017-05-11 4:35pm
- troynlori
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
If your crank bottomed out against the collar something bigger is wrong that just the chainline....
Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86. Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly. There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.
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#6 2017-05-11 5:05pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
troynlori wrote:
If your crank bottomed out against the collar something bigger is wrong that just the chainline....
Hmm, well, since I was trying to align the chainwheel/crank and the freewheel I needed to push a little bit the spindle, so the amount of space between the frame and cranks is basically the width of the collar. Thought this was 'normal'.
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#7 2017-05-11 6:28pm
- troynlori
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
What is the distance from the middle of your bottom bracket (widthwise) to the chainring?
Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86. Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly. There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.
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#8 2017-05-11 6:51pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
troynlori wrote:
What is the distance from the middle of your bottom bracket (widthwise) to the chainring?
From the middle of the bb shell, it's around 4.3mm. The spacers/lock collars are 11mm.
This is how it is at the moment (cranks arms not fully tightned, just pressed):
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#9 2017-05-11 6:52pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
I meant 4.3cm 
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#10 2017-05-11 6:56pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
There's no problem with your chainline. Push the crank off the collar by a mm or two, put a chain on, and go ride....
Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86. Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly. There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.
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#11 2017-05-12 7:24am
- vwzx
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
I would install the chain, make everything tight and then see if you are still having an issue.
83 Skyway TA
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89 Auburn
92 PK Ripper
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#12 2017-05-12 9:51am
- troynlori
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
Here's how I am looking at it. Rear wheels are ~110mm wide axle nut to axle nut. Freewheel teeth sit in about 8-12 mm (closer to 8 normally) from the drop out. Rear drop outs should be centered on the frame. So 55mm from center to drop out. 55 - (8 to 12) is 47 -43.
Your distance is 43 mm + 1=2 mm to center of chain wheel....45 mm. All lines up.
Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86. Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly. There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.
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#13 2017-05-12 3:03pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
Thanks for the input so far guys.
@troynlori, yup, your measurements are very close. The freewheel teeth on this tuff II though, are sitting around 12mm from the dropout.
I've already installed the bb and cranks and they spin smoothly. didn't adjusted the collars yet, since with these bb's you can slide somehow easily the spindle to align the chainwheel.
I also Bought a new chain and a few 0.8mm washers to shim the freewheel if needed. I think the alignment might be 2-4mm off as it is now, so I'll install the chain and see how it goes.
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#14 2019-11-24 6:16pm
- astroidbeltwalker
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
lock collars on the inside
just call me papi now, just papi.
IDK
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#15 2019-11-24 7:11pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
The chainline looks pretty bad from what I can make out. You need a narrower spindle and thinner lock collars.
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#16 2019-11-24 9:56pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
2+ years later if he hasn't figured it out he's not riding
It's yours. Do what you want with it
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#17 2019-11-25 7:03am
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
1979 wrote:
2+ years later if he hasn't figured it out he's not riding
Yup, 2 years and counting! 
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#18 2019-11-25 5:16pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
This lock washer is too thick. Your chainring should not be that far away from the BB to line up with the freewheel. You gotta swap around some hardware. Or the rear is bent, hard to tell from pics.
Last edited by 1979 (2019-11-25 5:18pm)
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#19 2019-11-25 5:23pm
- astroidbeltwalker
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
yeah that add is misleading have yet to see a working sealed yst
just call me papi now, just papi.
IDK
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#20 2019-11-25 5:44pm
- 1979
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
Second thoughts Just wondering if that's a retro Master? If so it will probably only accept modern cranks like Profiles without locknuts (minimal spacers) and possibly a smaller chain wheel for clearing the chain stay? If so I'm not aware of any square taper BB that would work.
It's yours. Do what you want with it
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#21 2019-11-26 4:11pm
- astroidbeltwalker
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
1979 wrote:
Second thoughts Just wondering if that's a retro Master? If so it will probably only accept modern cranks like Profiles without locknuts (minimal spacers) and possibly a smaller chain wheel for clearing the chain stay? If so I'm not aware of any square taper BB that would work.
euro conversion shorter spindle
just call me papi now, just papi.
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#22 2019-11-26 4:18pm
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB
BICIVOLADOR wrote:
1979 wrote:
2+ years later if he hasn't figured it out he's not riding
Yup, 2 years and counting!
https://i.imgur.com/F5dmV1h.jpg
You can't put a price on peace of mind.
This too shall pass.
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