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Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

#1 2017-05-11 3:59pm

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Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

Hi guys,

Just a looking for a little advice: I've finally received the cranks for my master. When installing, I realized I can't get a perfectly aligned chainline. Looks like I should 'push' the chainwheel/crank or 'pull' the freewheel. Couldn't measure how much accurately, but I'm guessing 2-4mm.

The thing is, I can't push the spindle and chainwheel further, since the BB comes with locking collars (YST sealed bearing conversion kit). Should I add spacers on the freewheel? Use it without one of the collars?

Any input appreciated!

http://i.imgur.com/IUORLU8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/uF9GzZ9.jpg

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#2 2017-05-11 4:31pm

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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

Sorry for the double post, but pics aren't showing properly.

http://image.prntscr.com/image/517095de80c345b583a745a7d0f3b1d3.png
http://image.prntscr.com/image/5bc108b638044099aaba937e1112f7e8.png

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#3 2017-05-11 4:31pm

Indyjps
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

Cant see your pics,   is the chainring tight against the locking collar? 

Im guessing youre using the square taper sealed american bottom bracket.

See them now.  Id get the locking collar cut down on thickness.     Is the square taper even seating all the way?

Youve got a little room to shim the freewheel.

Last edited by Indyjps (2017-05-11 4:34pm)


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#4 2017-05-11 4:34pm

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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

Indyjps wrote:

Cant see your pics,   is the chainring tight against the locking collar? 

Im guessing youre using the square taper sealed american bottom bracket.

yup, just uploaded them somewhere else.

I'm using this YST square taper sealed BB:
http://image.prntscr.com/image/5932c06381654b5483576a1eeb5e4090.png

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#5 2017-05-11 4:35pm

troynlori
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

If your crank bottomed out against the collar something bigger is wrong that just the chainline....


Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86.  Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly.  There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.

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#6 2017-05-11 5:05pm

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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

troynlori wrote:

If your crank bottomed out against the collar something bigger is wrong that just the chainline....

Hmm, well, since I was trying to align the chainwheel/crank and the freewheel I needed to push a little bit the spindle, so the amount of space between the frame and cranks is basically the width of the collar. Thought this was 'normal'.

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#7 2017-05-11 6:28pm

troynlori
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

What is the distance from the middle of your bottom bracket (widthwise) to the chainring?


Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86.  Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly.  There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.

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#8 2017-05-11 6:51pm

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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

troynlori wrote:

What is the distance from the middle of your bottom bracket (widthwise) to the chainring?

From the middle of the bb shell, it's around 4.3mm. The spacers/lock collars are 11mm.

This is how it is at the moment (cranks arms not fully tightned, just pressed):

http://image.prntscr.com/image/96e9a6cd70004cc1b103b3d39dbbe423.png
http://image.prntscr.com/image/e4856e3168094b6397a1098d634b92a8.png

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#9 2017-05-11 6:52pm

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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

I meant 4.3cm hmm

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#10 2017-05-11 6:56pm

troynlori
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

There's no problem with your chainline.  Push the crank off the collar by a mm or two, put a chain on, and go ride....


Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86.  Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly.  There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.

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#11 2017-05-12 7:24am

vwzx
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

I would install the chain, make everything tight and then see if you are still having an issue.


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#12 2017-05-12 9:51am

troynlori
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

Here's how I am looking at it.  Rear wheels are ~110mm wide axle nut to axle nut.  Freewheel teeth sit in about 8-12 mm (closer to 8 normally) from the drop out.  Rear drop outs should be centered on the frame.  So 55mm from center to drop out.  55 - (8 to 12) is 47 -43.

Your distance is 43 mm + 1=2 mm to center of chain wheel....45 mm.  All lines up.


Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86.  Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly.  There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.

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#13 2017-05-12 3:03pm

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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

Thanks for the input so far guys.

@troynlori, yup, your measurements are very close. The freewheel teeth on this tuff II though, are sitting around 12mm from the dropout.

I've already installed the bb and cranks and they spin smoothly. didn't adjusted the collars yet, since with these bb's you can slide somehow easily the spindle to align the chainwheel. 

I also Bought a new chain and a few 0.8mm washers to shim the freewheel if needed. I think the alignment might be 2-4mm off as it is now, so I'll install the chain and see how it goes.

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#14 2019-11-24 6:16pm

astroidbeltwalker
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

lock collars on the inside


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#15 2019-11-24 7:11pm

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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

The chainline looks pretty bad from what I can make out. You need a narrower spindle and thinner lock collars.


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#16 2019-11-24 9:56pm

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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

2+ years later if he hasn't figured it out he's not riding


It's yours. Do what you want with it smile

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#17 2019-11-25 7:03am

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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

1979 wrote:

2+ years later if he hasn't figured it out he's not riding

Yup, 2 years and counting! smile

https://i.imgur.com/F5dmV1h.jpg

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#18 2019-11-25 5:16pm

1979
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

https://s3.amazonaws.com/uploads.bmxmuseum.com/user-images/13482/20191125_2009375ddc7c0e03.jpg
This lock washer is too thick. Your chainring should not be that far away from the BB to line up with the freewheel. You gotta swap around some hardware. Or the rear is bent, hard to tell from pics.

Last edited by 1979 (2019-11-25 5:18pm)


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#19 2019-11-25 5:23pm

astroidbeltwalker
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

yeah that add is misleading have yet to see a working sealed yst


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#20 2019-11-25 5:44pm

1979
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

Second thoughts Just wondering if that's a retro Master? If so it will probably only accept modern cranks like Profiles without locknuts (minimal spacers) and possibly a smaller chain wheel for clearing the chain stay? If so I'm not aware of any square taper BB that would work.


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#21 2019-11-26 4:11pm

astroidbeltwalker
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

1979 wrote:

Second thoughts Just wondering if that's a retro Master? If so it will probably only accept modern cranks like Profiles without locknuts (minimal spacers) and possibly a smaller chain wheel for clearing the chain stay? If so I'm not aware of any square taper BB that would work.

euro conversion shorter spindle


just call me papi now, just papi.
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#22 2019-11-26 4:18pm

eric12
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Re: Chainline not 100%- using YST sealed BB

BICIVOLADOR wrote:

1979 wrote:

2+ years later if he hasn't figured it out he's not riding

Yup, 2 years and counting! smile

https://i.imgur.com/F5dmV1h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/F5dmV1h_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium


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