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Bullseye front hub tip  RSS Feed

#26 2013-12-02 9:18am

Coco
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
Registered: 2011-03-03
Posts: 9295

Re: Bullseye front hub tip

Meltdown wrote:

How does this happen redline?

I wish I knew the exact length in mm so I could check it.

New Bullseye hubs have QC issues. I had this problem on two newer pairs and sold them because I want hubs to work out of the box, not after fiddling with factory parts made out of spec.

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#27 2013-12-02 9:20am

Coco
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
Registered: 2011-03-03
Posts: 9295

Re: Bullseye front hub tip

Meltdown wrote:

The bastard fix is quite reliable and puts less stress on the hub Mr Chachi chromoly.rollwink

Which is why the inner sleeve may be phukered...not proven yet though until I know what the exact measurement of the sleeve is supposed to be.

You are still risking side loading your bearings a bit so the only thing to fix the problem properly is a new inner spacer/axle assembly as Vintage Chromoly mentioned.

Last edited by Coco (2013-12-02 9:24am)

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#28 2013-12-02 9:23am

Coco
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
Registered: 2011-03-03
Posts: 9295

Re: Bullseye front hub tip

Crashman wrote:

the problem is that the spacer sometimes gets crushed a few thousands of an inch, and that's all it takes to make the bearings wear prematurely. His fix is actually a more-reliable solution than the aluminum collar that preceded it.

The problem is newer Bullseye hubs are not made to exacting standards. I have had no issues with any hubs I have using a lock on collar except for newer Bullseye stuff.

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#29 2013-12-02 1:26pm

vintage chromoly
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Re: Bullseye front hub tip

Ok meltdown, here you go.....

My nos front spacer measures 2.380" (that's just an RCH more than 2 3/8"wink)

You can do a conversion if you need the value in metric.


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#30 2013-12-02 1:32pm

Meltdown
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From: Berkley, MI
Registered: 2012-09-01
Posts: 2039

Re: Bullseye front hub tip

vintage chromoly wrote:

Ok meltdown, here you go.....

My nos front spacer measures 2.380" (that's just an RCH more than 2 3/8"wink)

You can do a conversion if you need the value in metric.

Thank you sir, I appreciate you taking the time to do this!cool

I will get to this tomorrow and post my findings here.

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#31 2013-12-03 2:34pm

Meltdown
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From: Berkley, MI
Registered: 2012-09-01
Posts: 2039

Re: Bullseye front hub tip

VC, Thanks again for that measurement!

I pulled the sleeve and it was shorter than 2.380. I didnt write it down and forgot what it was now...dangit!

I cut a new sleeve at 2.382 and used a bit of sand cloth on a flat surface to get 2.380.

Put it all back together and it seems fine. The wheel spins freely with no binding.

Thanks guys and special kudos to VC!cool

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#32 2013-12-15 5:26am

troynlori
ModeratorSuper "Pedal Peddler" Mod
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Registered: 2009-11-22
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For Sale: 128

Re: Bullseye front hub tip

I had a question here, but I wanted to make a drawing to help me understand.  I'm trying to understand the working concept of a hub like this.  Take note, I am asking, not telling.

First of all, you can tell me if I have my drawing right...?

Secondly, are the little set screws on a smooth surface the only thing that keeps the inner spacer from going right or left when you are tightening the "huge" axle bolts?  If so, I'd be willing to bet that the inner spacer repositions itself during the tightening process, meaning that the set screws are semi meaningless.  I would also say it's sort of harmless because everything is locked together, but I don't want that inner spacer being pulled out against my dropout.  I'm pretty sure this happened on our hub.

I think I'd like this design better if they threaded the collars.  I know the design is different, but I think I'm preferring the designs of my old GT hubs and my mid school ELF hubs where there are threaded collars.

Anyhow...do I have it right?

Oh, and I assume the OP's problem was that the inner spacer was not such that they had that tiny bit of clearance (I'm guessing ~0.05mm) between the outer spacer and the hub shell.

http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae154/troynlori/BullseyeHub_zpsa3a5633a.jpg

Last edited by troynlori (2013-12-15 5:30am)


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#33 2013-12-15 6:02am

eric12
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From: M'Boro, TN
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Re: Bullseye front hub tip

The collars don't seem to move if you tighten the axle bolts equally. The fronts I have never had a problem with, the rear is a different story. On the rear I tighten the freewheel side first (it has the shorter collar) and then tighten the other side. I have pulled the axle sleeve out of the collar on the freewheel side if I didn't do it this way.

I agree the threaded collars are a better design. I use washers that are the exact size of the bolt between the dropout and the collars, so if it does pull the axle sleeve through it doesn't hit the frame. This also allows me to make the hubs fit the FF dropout spacing so I don't squeeze the dropouts closer than they were welded to. If that makes any sense.


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#34 2013-12-15 6:22am

troynlori
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
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Re: Bullseye front hub tip

It does make sense.  I normally don't do that, as things are generally a pretty good fit.

So you are basically confirming my thinking that if you are not a little careful, you can pull the sleeve out and the set screws aren't too meaningful.  I'm surprised by this hub design.  I wonder if Philwood is the same, but I'm thinking not....I'm assuming this is why Philwood must go to the factory for repair...?  I'm also guessing the only way Bullseye could thread the outside of the inner sleeve is to make it thicker...requiring larger bearings, etc.


If you want silver pedal cages....better tell me now....it's all going out for anodizing before long and I then won't have silver...

Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86.  Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly.  There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.

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#35 2019-01-02 10:18am

socaldude
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From: Waipahu, Hawaii
Registered: 2009-10-14
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Re: Bullseye front hub tip

http://uploads.bmxmuseum.com/user-images/35806/a487d07d-cc1a-4eb3-835a-2e0cc36d6f9a5c2d006b87.jpeg
I know this is old but here’s the measurement of the axle sleeve. I also have these shims that unfortunately I need to use often. Like I said, the hubs aren’t perfect from the factory and placing one or two small shims between the axle sleeve and the bearing oftentimes eliminates the side loading of the bearing.

[img][/img]

Meltdown wrote:

Socaldude, this washer is not indicated on the exploded view that I have seen.
http://www.proteanpaper.com/nothing.gif

sorry, bad link...and it wont let me copy and paste it either. sad

http://uploads.bmxmuseum.com/user-images/35806/84a20cb3-68a7-4f43-b006-1419572772885c2d0069c0.jpeg
http://uploads.bmxmuseum.com/user-images/35806/3aac27bc-005a-40af-b3b1-9e126e9602eb5c2d006cbb.jpeg


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#36 2019-01-02 10:53pm

squirrelsmith
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Re: Bullseye front hub tip

The distance between the 2 bearings is going to be different for every hub. I mean the flanges are glued on for christ sake lol each set needs a custom fitting job if you want them perfect


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