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Tuff II Coaster....How To....

#1 2015-09-19 7:03pm

Londonhellboy
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Tuff II Coaster....How To....

For the benefit of anyone that might find this useful, I will strip down and rebuild a coaster brake on a Tuff II. The only video on You Tube is pretty dismal and does not apply to Tuff's, I have tried it.

I will also advise on how you can run it with the coaster disabled, with or without using the likes of an adaptor, or ACS freecoaster.

Tools required are:- Cone nut spanner, adjustable wrench, flat headed screwdriver, grease, and rags.

We start with removing the wheel from the frame....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/1_zpsil6efcwp.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/4_zpstr53bdvy.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/2_zpshf3vxzpu.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/3_zpshytcuxnt.jpg

You will find that most of the Tuff II's you come across will be running the Suntour/Bendix coaster. There are different models with slightly varying touches though. There are 2 shoe, 3 shoe, and 4 shoe models.

We will be looking at the 3 shoe model as per the diagram below....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w49 … qs1ynp.jpg

Firstly, we remove the coaster by 'going in' from the drive side, so there is no need to remove all the coaster arm. You will require the cone spanner for this. Note the two flat edges to the cone nut under the locking nut. Place your cone spanner on the cone nut....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/6_zpsdjgppxqv.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/7_zpsqivnoakt.jpg

Using the adjustable spanner ( or 7/8 spanner), undo the locking nut while holding the cone nut spanner with your other hand, and remove it from the axle. It will undo anti-clockwise....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/8_zpsrzzie3jj.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/9_zpsakpdggvb.jpg

Unscrew and remove the cone nut from the axle....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/10_zpsiyvfzu3h.jpg

Grip the sprocket with one hand, hold the coaster arm with your other hand, and turning anti-clockwise, unscrew the driver and remove from the axle....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/11_zpsvhldpxye.jpg

Note the small inner bearing. You may want to remove this now, clean it all, and repack, or you can do it as you replace it....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/12_zpsk0hz0uik.jpgg]

Your driver and sprocket, together with dirt shield, will look like this....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/13_zpskal2n2yi.jpg

Remove the large inner bearing from it's hub race....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/14_zpslxj8eewy.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/15_zpsdgnrx7ck.jpg

We can now flip the Tuff over and completely remove the axle, clutch assembly, and brake shoes....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/16_zpsd4ag8jt1.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/17_zpsaxalmoul.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/18_zpsl56fxae0.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/19_zpshjmmppng.jpg

Note the clutch spring located inside the clutch cone....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/20_zpsrlzsaklw.jpg

Brake shoes....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/21_zpskgrjkutw.jpg

Each side of the hub looks different so, make a note of which side to feed the coaster arm attached to the axle into, and the side the driver fits to. The is the coaster arm side....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/22_zps7eq4biwl.jpg

Drive side....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/23_zps1afyqjzo.jpg

Your complete coaster guts....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/24_zpsoswaubkm.jpg

We will start by thoroughly cleaning all the old grease off the parts, and putting them together to familiarize ourselves with how they go together inside the hub, as putting it back can be a little fiddly. I have one stripped down into small parts that I can aid with this. This is the brake cone. On the top is the bearing race, and the bottom part has two slots, this enables the clutch cone spring to engage the cone...

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/25_zps8aloapc4.jpg

Clutch cone with clutch spring. Note the two different finishes on each of the spring...

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/27_zpsjawienlx.jpg

How they sit together inside the hub....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/28_zpsb7moq4x9.jpg

Bearing fitted to brake cone....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/29_zpsfjrdgt8a.jpg

Coaster arm bearing shield....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/30_zps5pq9xcoh.jpg

Axle, coaster arm, spacer, and lock nut fitted....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/31_zpsrkr06hk2.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/32_zpslraykjzh.jpg

This is the driver with the bearing dust shield, sprocket, and lock ring attached to it. Driver inner bearing that the cone nut mates with....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/33_zpscimnzljz.jpg

Sprocket and lock ring....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/34_zpsw6a5nqba.jpg

And the flip side where you can see the dust shield. The large threaded part fits into the clutch cone when fitted....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/35_zpstre6kuxb.jpg

Large inner bearing fitted....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/36_zpssg0cngiz.jpg

This slides onto the axle and screws into the clutch cone like so....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/37_zpsl8epshbg.jpg

Cone nut fitted....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/38_zpsbict5klg.jpg

You will note that there are 3 'flats' on the brake cone. This is where the brake shoes sit....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/39_zpsftf7fqhq.jpg

Like so..... If you hold the coaster arm in your left hand, turn the driver towards you with your right hand, you will see it push the clutch cone toward the brake cone and raise the brake shoe slightly. When in the hub and all three shoes fitted, these will raise and grip the inner walls of the hub case, thus effectively stopping you, a coaster brake....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/40_zps9iee4egh.jpg

Okay. Now we can see how it works inside the hub casing, lets put it back together wink


Firstly, clean all the old grease from the hub bearing races and apply new. I like to use Finish Line Teflon Grease....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/41_zps3fr07tul.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/42_zps715gkexy.jpg

Holding the coaster arm in your left hand (or right if you are left handed), slide the clutch cone onto the brake cone ensuring the springs fits where it should, and place a dab of grease onto each of the 'flats' where the brake shoes sit. This will hold them in place when fitting it all to the hub casing....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/43_zpshdbdcg3s.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/44_zpsyfgojgoy.jpg

Now take the brake shoes and firmly press them into the grease. It doesn't matter if the clutch cone moves up the axle a little, as long as it doesn't come off the brake cone. Pressing the shoes down will enable the coaster to fit into the hub casing easier....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/45_zps4chopkzr.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/46_zpsu7d0oxub.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/47_zpskwtfyxkq.jpg

There are two easy ways to fit this into the hub casing, that I have found. You can either stand the axle holding the coaster arm and lower the Tuff onto it or, you can slide it slowly sideways into the hub casing....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/48_zpsxftujbrd.jpg

Either way, this may occur. The brake plates will splay a little as you insert it. Patience is key here Guys. All you need to do is, holding the wheel in an upright position, take a small flat edge screwdriver and gently guide the plates into the hub while you gently ease the axle into it. Sounds a bit fiddly? It is but, it will slide in with ease as long as you don't rush it....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/49_zpsum0ia982.jpg

I can't hold the axle and camera while pushing the plates in, sorry guys,   big_smile  I have eased them in to the edge of the hub casing....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/49_zpsum0ia982.jpg

The clutch cone is butted against the other side of the hub casing so will not go anywhere or come off the brake cone. This will stop the brake shoes feom being able to go anywhere other than where they should, too....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/52_zpsuiqkymyz.jpg

With a little easing and twisting, the coaster assembly will slide into the hub casing....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/53_zpscnyw3bia.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/54_zpsmnlzlies.jpg

Okay. So now we flip the Tuff over so the floor can hold the coaster guts in place, and fit the drive side. Firstly, place the large bearing into the hub race....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/55_zpsnnrkasog.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/56_zps7w1jwi2k.jpg

Now, take the drive assembly, feed it over the axle, slide down to meet the clutch cone, and screw in clockwise until it can go no more....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/57_zpsqxgrrfee.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/58_zps8yezoabw.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/59_zpsvw5bbhel.jpg

If you removed the small bearing from the driver, cleaned and repacked at the start, then move on to the next step. If not, remove it now, clean, repack and replace....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/60_zpst5unbw41.jpg

Screw the cone nut back down the axle.You only need to hand tighten this for the moment....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/61_zps49e5b45v.jpg

Fit and hand tighten the locking nut....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/62_zpsmxxkyxzf.jpg

Firstly spin the wheel. You will find it doesn't run as smooth as a looseball hub and this is inherent of coaster Tuff's. The only thing you can do to help is adjust the cone nut and locking nut in fractions until you are happy with the spin and play of the axle. Always remember to tighten the cone a fraction more against the bearing, then butt the locking nut up against it, and tighten the cone nut anti-clockwise onto the lock nut to ensure it stays where it does. Leaving these loose, you run the risk of the cone nut tightening itself as you ride, which will crush the hub inwards damaging the hub casing and bearings, sometimes beyond repair....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/63_zpswqid0yvb.jpg

And there you have it, repacked, fitted, and ready to roll  :daumenhoch:

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/64_zpsjp4m9sce.jpg
http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/65_zpsaxjbelbt.jpg

There are 3 ways of immobilising the coaster so you run with a calliper brake. One is to use a ACS freecoaster kit. This comes with the driver, switchable freewheel, new cone nut, locking nut, and small bearing dirt shield....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/12017649_1108904529137166_1657742249762386031_o_zpstwozot6v.jpg

Ensure you have the right one. Suntour or Bendix, not the Shimano one....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/12034180_1108904695803816_1449091640866854358_o_zpsklq383sv.jpg

Or, you use can use a freewheel adaptor. This replaces the driver so you can run a normal freewheel. All the coaster guts stay as they are. Make sure it is also for Suntour/Bendix, not Shimano as shown....

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/12009760_1108908665803419_9052482678171902379_n_zpssaf4botl.jpg

Or, the third and final way is to do a refit like above BUT, omitting the brake shoes. You add a couple of Profile (other brands available) crank washers to lessen the travel distance for engagement.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/hub1_zpstqapoop3.jpg

In all cases, the coaster arm should be left in place and bolted to the frame. I hope this is helpful to anyone looking to rebuild or convert their Tuff II, or your first time coaster maintenance.

Thanks for reading. Any questions, please feel free to PM me  big_smile

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/12006597_1108917629135856_8913289977411485379_o_zpspr4uhcar.jpg


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#2 2015-09-20 9:47am

butlerglc
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

nice job!!!!! smilecool


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#3 2015-09-20 10:17am

its-all-good
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Good post. But, I would never use white lithium grease.


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#4 2015-09-20 11:24am

Londonhellboy
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

I use Finish Line Teflon Grease  big_smile

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w495/Freestylerider/Tuff%20Coaster/72_zpsvgao64ch.jpg

- Finish Line grease is specifically formulated for use on bicycle bearings
- Super-slick Teflon-fortified formula coats and protects ball bearings and races, preventing wear and corrosion
- Works well in extremely stressful environments, such as in headsets and bottom brackets
- Great for other applications - hub bearings, pivots, etc
- Finish Line's exclusive hydrophobic grease thickening agent repels water and keeps grease stable even if totally submerged
- Grease will not separate or decompose under extreme heat
- The synthetic oils used are non-toxic and biodegradable, and the grease is non-toxic and environmentally friendly


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#5 2015-09-20 11:34am

kegger
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

wow!!
great job with this!! cool

i was going to suggest it be put with my bendix tutorial in  the reference section,  sad

http://bmxmuseum.com/reference/3192

the reference section takes away all the comments and fun stuff guys said sad
plus, segregated all the pics.
so, good job on the pics, very informative big_smile


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#6 2015-09-20 4:19pm

its-all-good
Pro MemberDon't Cheers Me Bro
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Londonhellboy wrote:

I use Finish Line Teflon Grease  big_smile

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w49 … ao64ch.jpg

- Finish Line grease is specifically formulated for use on bicycle bearings
- Super-slick Teflon-fortified formula coats and protects ball bearings and races, preventing wear and corrosion
- Works well in extremely stressful environments, such as in headsets and bottom brackets
- Great for other applications - hub bearings, pivots, etc
- Finish Line's exclusive hydrophobic grease thickening agent repels water and keeps grease stable even if totally submerged
- Grease will not separate or decompose under extreme heat
- The synthetic oils used are non-toxic and biodegradable, and the grease is non-toxic and environmentally friendly

cool I just looked like white lithium grease in the pics.


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#7 2015-10-05 12:51pm

Londonhellboy
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

kegger wrote:

wow!!
good job on the pics, very informative big_smile

Thank buddy cool

Your Shimano walk through is cool too, and easy to understand. Good job wink


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#8 2015-10-05 1:58pm

*Survivor City*
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Marked
Talk about detailed!
Great work.


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#9 2015-10-05 5:27pm

Stubbleduck43
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

I've been messing with this since the early 80's.  I took the coaster arm off since you don't need it for a free-coaster (the modification with the un-brake).  I ran a 48H Jad shell with Suntour guts and it worked awesome.  Well, the term "free-coaster" came from the ACS kit.  Now they call everything "free-coaster" because of that.  I had the ACS kit in my Peregrine Master mags in '87.  That thing weighed a ton!

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#10 2015-10-05 5:32pm

troynlori
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Beautiful write up!

Why must we leave the brake arm if we remove the shoes?


Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86.  Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly.  There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.

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#11 2015-10-05 6:14pm

butlerglc
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

troynlori wrote:

Beautiful write up!

Why must we leave the brake arm if we remove the shoes?

The brake arm holds the the dust shield in place. So it need to be there to keep everything snug or replace or with a custom washer.


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#12 2015-10-05 6:40pm

troynlori
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

I agree, but otherwise, not needed right?


Hutch Fun Facts: All main line Hutch's with digits only S/N (no letters or baseballs) on the rear drop outs were US made and had their dropouts stamped between late '83 and '86.  Obviously the frame manufacture would occur slightly after that, even if they just threw 'em in a bucket randomly.  There is an obvious date code in that the first 2 digits seem to be the month and the 3rd digit is pretty obviously the last digit of the year running from '83-'86.

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#13 2015-10-05 6:42pm

scrumblero
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

so your not greasing the surface of the brake shoes where they contact the hub shell?  I always slather that part up real good.. hmm


Horns up!!  \m/

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#14 2015-10-06 11:54am

Londonhellboy
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Thank you, appreciate the kind words.

I like to keep the arm on because it makes the whole thing feel 'connected' at the rear. It also prevents any slippage if the axle should spin in the drops slightly, plus it keeps the dust shield in place


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#15 2015-11-29 6:41pm

dooleymike
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Question, Will the JB adapter work on a set of 16" pit size Tuff II's?
Meaning are the guts the same size on a 16" and a 20" hub?
Bendix coaster.
Please and Thank you.


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#16 2015-11-29 7:29pm

butlerglc
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

yes ! It will work fine


No more media blasting at this time.
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#17 2015-11-30 2:01pm

vwzx
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

troynlori wrote:

I agree, but otherwise, not needed right?

Correct. I did a freewheel adapter swap and made a home brew washer to replace the brake arm. The brake arm only functions to hold the dust cap in place once you swap in the freewheel adapter. You could also cut/trim the arm if you don't ever want to make it a coaster brake again.


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#18 2015-12-01 12:31pm

rideon
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Excellent job, very informative.

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#19 2015-12-30 7:54pm

Irata
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Marked.

Thanks for the thorough write up!

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#20 2016-02-20 1:02pm

Londonhellboy
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

smile


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#21 2016-03-10 9:05am

DYNOWILL
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

MARKED cool

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#22 2016-03-30 4:26am

TORKERBLOKE
Museum Addict
From: Los Angeles, CA
Registered: 2009-09-16
Posts: 1086
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

God,i hate coaster brakes,so dumb and so heavy


Looking for  - Blue anno TUF NECK seat clamp 1 1/8th" - or i have a black one or silver one of the same size to trade - FLYING WEDGE CHROME BARS

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#23 2016-05-26 5:38am

Bosey45
Museum Newbie
From: Glasgow UK
Registered: 2016-01-31
Posts: 16
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Just followed this guide.Thanks man.Great job!

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#24 2016-05-28 8:54pm

unkleyoda
Jedi
From: Here to there
Registered: 2010-12-07
Posts: 2354
Bikes: 9
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

.


Wanted: Black/White pinstriped California Lite pad (only need frame pad)
               Schwinn white coaster brake mags (Redstone)

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#25 2016-09-04 2:15am

cheap`n`cheerful
Intermediate
From: United Kingdom
Registered: 2010-10-07
Posts: 406
Bikes: 71
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Re: Tuff II Coaster....How To....

Ideal, very helpful.

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