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Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

#1 2008-05-19 6:07am

Monaro
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Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

Tuff's are made from a Nylon composite, that type of Nylon has a really good memory, in other words it goes back to its original shape after being bent (slightly), think of the Nylon bristles in your dish brush, they are being bent when you scrub with them, but they go back to their original shape afterwards. Lets say you leave the brush pushed up against something for a couple of weeks, the memory will change, note that extreame heat or cold can speed up this effect. Getting back to your Tuff wheel, what I have done before is to make a jig out of wood (2x4), in a square shape, then with 2 other boards straddled across the lower part of the square, place your wheel over, then place a small peice of board on top of the Tuff and put a bottle jack on it between the top rail of the square frame. Then work out the buckled area of the wheel and put some pressure on the centre with the jack. Now leave it for a week and then remove and test it. You may have to do this several times to get it straight.

I made this diagram to help explain what I mean smile

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/1921/wheeladjuster2wc9.png

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#2 2008-05-19 8:41pm

heathcliff
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From: AKL, New Zealand
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

This is tried and true?  Awesome advice Monaro.  A have a rear that has buckled in less than 6 months, and it's hardly received a hammering.

I knew there had to be some way to straighten them (freezer theory aside).  Good on you for applying a practical solution.

Definitely getting started on this this weekend.

This deserves to be a sticky.  Some pics of your process would be helpful, maybe I'll shoot some during the process and add them to this post afterwards.


Wtb:
S&s Tiger Teeth Chainwheel
Sr Gt Power Series Crankset

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#3 2008-05-20 4:19am

Monaro
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

HOW TO WORK OUT WHERE TO PLACE THE WHEEL
(some people know how to do this, but others may not so here it is)
What I do is to fit the wheel up, lets say into the forks, hold a lollie pop stick up against the fork arm facing the rim of the Tuff, then spin the wheel around slowly until you find the high spot, mark this with a pencil, now with a bit of tape, stick the stick onto the fork arm just touching the rim where the mark is. Now rotate your wheel 180deg. and measure the gap. now measure the gap at the 90deg. side and 270deg. side and draw a circle on a note pad with these measurements to remember them later. Now place your wheel in the jig with the mark that you put on the wheel on one of the boards with the wheel facing down, now place your jack on the tuff and put pressure on the hub, enough to bend the rim the other way than the buckle slightly. leave it in this state for a week or 2. Now remove your wheel and remeasure as before and note the change from the original measurements. It is a bit of a trial and error method but it does get the job done and saves the tuff.
It is also worth noting that if your buckle is only minor, you can leave your wheel mounted and jamm a suitable sized piece of wood between the fork leg and the rim, then leave it for a week or 2 and remove, this will fix minor buckles.
Just one other thing, make sure your measurements are right and dont put to much pressure on the wheel, you dont want to break it!! remember you are just trying to change the memory of the nylon. smile

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#4 2008-05-20 4:22am

Monaro
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

heathcliff wrote:

Some pics of your process would be helpful.

I still have this jig, it's at my brothers place about 1.5hrs away, as soon as I get up there again, I will dig it out and take a picture and post it (if he hasn't used it in the fireplace LoL).

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#5 2008-05-23 10:33am

Jzone99
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

hey you did not provide a plane view!

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#6 2008-06-02 10:36am

BridgeCity
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

the diagram is clever. never thought of jigging a press like that.  pretty cool!

my dad used to take us to a local shop that had a press which looked similar where we'd restraighten our Rampar forks when they got too choppered (prior to us being able to afford or locally purchase cro-mo forks

 

#7 2008-08-27 10:28pm

RXREKTD
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

Any pics of this yet, I'm about to attempt to do this so pics would be super helpful.  Thanks.


Looking for a few parts so please PM me if you have it:

24" Gold Araya/Ukia Speedline Hoops
Single Comp III Yellow Label 24 x 2.125 in black
Single Knarler Knobby 24 x 1.75

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#8 2008-10-17 8:42am

t0nnn
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From: South Jersey
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

would this work with GT mags as well?

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#9 2008-12-16 5:45pm

CythoN
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From: Hertfordshire, UK
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

Should work with any plastic/nylon composite.   Pics would be cool if its not too late

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#10 2011-07-16 6:21am

tuffguy
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

great idea!


Need used 20" items: red or blue metal flanged Tuff Wheel II front, yellow Tuff Wheel I rear, red Tuff I rear, Pro-class silver front wheel, gold Araya 7x or Ukai rear wheels 1.75 or 1.5, nice silver Araya 7c 20x1 3/8 rear wheel w/black low-flange hub, Motomag II rear

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#11 2011-07-17 12:54pm

1oldschoolG
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Re: Tuff Straightening (Not the Myth)

We were discussing this a few months ago.  I guy I met from Texas and myself.  Discussion got the the freezing or tuffs' and z-rims.  I remember hearing BITD that freezing them straightend them (this myth made its rounds if we all heard it).  Well then how the hell did they not get straight every winter at my house in Montana in the barn.

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