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1998 Dyno Compe
1998 Dyno Compe
1998 Dyno Compe
Custom Wheel Covers & Matching Sprocket! - SOLD
Completely overhauled, detailed to the extreme. This is the original factory paint & decals, and it looks pretty good all waxed up. All The bearings were thoroughly cleaned and re-packed(excluding pedals). Any chrome was polished, with Mother's chrome polish.
The factory KMC two-tone chain was soaked in Gunk Parts Cleaner overnight, scrubbed, rinsed, and re-lubed. Looks and works great. I use the White Lighting "dry lube" (it's basically more like a specially designed wax than an oil). which does not attract as much dirt.
I also lubricated the detangler cables with this Teflon lube injection kit available for ATV maintenance of clutch & brake cables. It has this little block that clamps onto the end of the cable housing, the block makes a seal around the inner housing to the outer casing, and has a port in the block the straw goes into. Couple of sprays of the aerosol can delivers lube down the straw, into the block, down through the casing, lubing the cable all the way through. Of course I had to have the de-tangler cables off the bike not to make a mess doing this(the blocks "seal" was not a perfect seal. but it still delivered). A neat little device for lubricating otherwise unreachable sections of the split de-tangler cables.
The wheel covers are a custom one-off set. Schwinn Excerciser wheel covers which were originally designed for 28spoke wheels, were custom fitted to these 48's. First all the molded knob like clips were ground off the backside. Secondly a valve stem access hole was measured out and done in with a hole saw on a drill. Third stem was to cut some wooden pucks (little cubes wedged at about 23 degrees). The same degree of angle the spokes separate from the rim to the hub flanges. Forth step was to lay out a pattern on the wheel covers and drill, so that the hardware will hit the pucks floating between the spokes(in space between groups of 4, the largest open area of the spoke lace pattern). That's it, pretty simple. The covers fit nice and snug, and look super tough!
To compliment the wheel covers, the factory sprocket was refinished to match. A pattern was laid out, holes drilled and tapped. The sprocket was then powder-coated matte black. The Torx Hardware add for the final touch. Really turned out great!
This fork's little loop hanger for the front brake cable was broke off when I got this. So I'm running a metal clamp that GT used for cables on top-tubes with the same diameter. Works very well.
Here's a parts list:
* Frame: Dyno Compe, 6mm thick 3/8 drop-outs.
* Fork: Dyno, OE.
* Head-set: Caged bearing, OE.
* Cable De-tangler: SST ORYG, ORYG Lower cable, Hyper upper cable.
* Stem: GT Piston, metric, OE
* Bars: Dyno stamped, OE
* Grips: Unknown, translucent, Pr1mo stickers underneath.
* Levers: Unknown, alloy.
* Front brake: Proponent W/GT "Speed Trap" Brake pads.
* Rear brake: APSE Alloy.
* Seat: GT drop-nose plastic, OE.
* Post: Straight, OE
* Clamp: GT alloy, OE.
* Crank: 165mm OPC, OE.
* Bottom Bracket: Caged bearing, OE.
* Sprocket: Dyno Steel, OE, refinshed to match wheel covers.
* Pedals: GT aluminum platforms, OE.
* Chain: KMC W/master link.
* Freewheel: DNP Long Ind. 16tooth.
* Wheels: HJC alloy 48spoke hoops, high flange loose ball hubs.
* Misc: Wheel covers, 1976 Schwinn made, altered to fit.
* Tires: Kenda, 1.75" skinwalls
(OE = Original Equipment. Came on the bike from the factory.)
Re: 1998 Dyno Compe
My Father once spoke to me and said "The way you look at your bike is the way I see My children, I look past the imperfections and rough surfaces to the beauty of the finished product."