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AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

#1 2013-05-09 6:22pm

Old School Fool
From: Hawaii
Signed up: 2008-03-31
Posts: 1643
Bikes: 7

AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!


Well, here it is....FINALLY, ha ha....I've been to Hell and back with all my bike builds, but I have ultimately reached my MAIN GOAL. All I wanted from the very beginning was a Trick Star that would not break on me. As most of you know (those who have followed my builds at least) I had a few Trick Star projects in the works (around 4 or 5) but ended up giving up on all of them for fear of destroying them, as Hutches were known for being very light but also prone to cracking. At the size I am now I don't want to risk putting all that time, work, and money into it only to have the frame/fork break from the abuse of Freestyle riding.

I have a few other favorite old school brand name frames that I love too, but in my opinion the 80's Hutch Trick Star has always had the best geometry for the type of riding I like to do.

HUGE props to Rick Moliterno of Standard Bykes (along with a bit of help from Woody Itson) for creating this Masterpiece for me, and what I feel is the IDEAL version of a Modern Day Trick Star - the WOODY ITSON PRO MODEL SERIES. This frame is based off a USA built 80's Hutch Trick Star (exact same size tubing and geometry) but it features a new 1 and 1/8" integrated headtube and 990 rear brake mounts. It is made almost entirely of Ox Platinum, a material that has a much higher fatigue strength than standard 4130 chromoly while still being just as lightweight. I am absolutely stoked about this build far beyond what I can express here in words, and I hope you enjoy it too.

I had also mentioned before in these forums that THIS is actually what my first custom Standard Bykes built "Ricksta" was supposed to be, but things did not work out as planned at the time. That frame ended up being way too small for me, and the bike was soon parted out and sold. Nonetheless the Ricksta still remains a huge favorite among many here and I'm very happy for that. I am really looking forward to the new owner's re-release of the Ricksta.

Keep in mind this bike is not as extravagant or flamboyant as the is not meant to be, as it has 80's geometry so I wanted a basic 80's style look with just a hint of New School style added. I tried to keep things very simple and clean but also fully functional.

This is definitely one of the most mentally demanding and time consuming builds I have ever done. A world of thought and attention to detail went into this build. Every single section of this bike,right down to the brake cables, were thought out carefully and assigned to carry out a specific purpose.

My MAIN goals/concerns with this build were (from most important to least):

1) STRENGTH (Able to endure constant abuse of Freestyle riding)
2) RIDEABILITY (Completely dialed in, safe to ride)
3) HANDLING (Smooth, well balanced)
4) GOOD LOOKS (Simple and clean, yet unique)
5) MODEST WEIGHT (Not too heavy, not too light, but juuuuust right)

Once again let me state, and I ALWAYS state this with all my builds - I am NOT a Purist....I never was.....I use whatever parts I feel have proven themselves to work the best for me or that I feel will withstand the abuse I plan to put them through, regardless of who makes them. Also, if a part is not up to my standards in finish I will have it redone, whether nos or not. I understand some will not agree with this, and there are a few serious collectors here that will swear by only original era-correct pieces for their build, and they will wait, and pay top dollar for those pieces which I completely understand. I truly admire those who do this, and hold you in very high regards. Someday when I have the time and money (and patience) perhaps I will take on the challenge of completing an all original parts bike build....until then I ask that you please respect my opinion as I do yours, and do not bash or leave negative comments on my thread.

Thank you.

Furthermore as detailed as my builds are I DO NOT build Carpet Queens.....ALL my bikes are built to be ridden hard, and this one is no exception. It will be ridden almost daily.




Well, enough babbling for now.......PROCEED TO WANG CHUNG......









2013 Woody Itson Pro Model, full custom, built by Rick Moliterno of Standard Bykes

(Same exact specs, tubing sizes, and geometry as original 80's USA Made Hutch Trick Star, done in Ox Platinum,
with added 1 and 1/8" integrated head tube, 990 rear brake mounts, cable guides/barrel adjuster poles)

Frame weight (after powdercoat) 5lbs, 5.8oz
[Compare to 5lbs 0.2oz for my '85 chrome USA made Trick Star frame]


Odyssey R25, modified by Rick Moliterno to run Suntour Rollercam brakes

(Same exact 25mm offset as original Trick Star fork)

Fork weight (after mods and powdercoat) 2lb, 1.8oz
[Exact same weight as my '85 chrome USA made Trick Star fork]

Powdercoat color used is the closest shade I could find to Odyssey Ocean Blue


Suntour Cunningham Rollercam setup

24K gold plated brake arms from Woody Itson

Actuator pieces and Brake Bridge done by the Infamous Matt Jones

All fork modification work and actuator pieces welded up by Rick Moliterno


Animal (Def Leppard!!!)


Odyssey GYRO GTX (steel version)


FIT Brian Foster, 48mm

(Stock Hutch Western H is 57mm, went shorter to try a bit quicker response)

*Now back to 57mm Ultra Werks stem


Nos Peregrine Q bars (1.5 version, mid 90's) show chromed


Dia Compe Tech 77 Locking

Japan made, show polished locking buttons and lever ends


A'Me Tri's with ends cutoff


Revenge Industries plastic


All Odyssey Linear Slic cables

Lubed with 50/50 mix of Lithium grease and Tri-Flo

Rear upper Snafu Astroglide cut and redone using new Odyssey Vapor Blue cables, both upper and lower cables run seperate individual lines eliminating the need for Gyro Y cables


Hutch donut (New issue)


Elf first gen, show chromed


Hutch Kashimax (New issue)


Redline 19mm mid USA, sealed, black


Hutch Aerospeed (New issue)

175mm, show chromed arms, 6" Profile chromoly spindle


Hutch Beartraps (New issue, and yes I did buy new shinguards!)

Cages ground down a bit and reanodized

Original Hutch cage protectors


Simple Stockholm 33T, new, reanodized


KMC Z410 black/white, running endless (no master link)


Proper Magnalite, show chromed by Matt Jones' chromer

*Switched to chrome Evo2


Primo Balance 7005 series 36H front and rear hoops, factory chrome

Stainless DT Swiss spokes/nipples, show polished by me

Odyssey Hubs - Vandero2 front, Quartet ratchet rear, 12T cog, both hubs feature 3/8" female axles (Had to grind 14mm lips off)

Velox rim tape, Bontrager tubes, Mr. Tuffy tire liners

Odyssey Frequency G Tanwall tires, 20x1.85 front and rear, up to 100psi (I run my tires at 65~85 psi)

*Now running 20x1.75 Frequency G tires


Suelo V3 front and rear (Thanks Pat at Flatland Fuel!)

Wheelbase - 35 inches (rear axle set at exactly 14.25" of chainstay length)

*Axle now back at 14.5" chainstay length, wheelbase 35.25"

Total bike weight - 29lbs, 2oz.


Just a few Shout Outs......

I would like to give another huge THANKS to Rick Moliterno, owner of Standard Bykes for his awesome fabrication skills, and Woody Itson for all he has done for the Freestyle community, and both of these awesome guys for keeping the Spirit of Riding BMX bikes alive and strong!!

Also Huge Props to all the rest of those who have helped with this build especially the Homeboys at the local Bikefactory - Duane Franklin, Dennis Toyoda, and all the crew there, THANK YOU guys for all you have done for me, and helping me get the parts I needed for this Special build, you guys ROCK!!

Thanks to my Homegirl Kiana owner of Octopi Designs for the awesome photoshoot!!

And of course Props to Matt Jones for helping me out with the unique unobtainium parts I needed for the front brake setup, and THANK YOU for the hookup on the rear brake chrome job!!

Thanks to Mike G. for the awesome help on the decal layout and putting my design ideas into real art!!

Thanks to Derek at for final work/printout of my custom decals!!

Thanks to Chip at for sending me a bunch of color swatches and being patient with me while I tried to find the right color I needed, the finished product is PERFECT!!

Thanks to Frank at for the AWESOME Show Chroming work!!

Thanks to for the black anodizing!!

Thanks to John DeBruin of for the new issue parts, they are SOLID and look fantastic, I LOVE them!!

And thanks to all the Members here who came to take a look at my build, I truly appreciate it!!!




Some Notes.....

As you all know when building a bike from frame up, especially a custom one, there will be some issues along the way. This is not even half of the issues I had to deal with but I feel that the solutions I have come up with might be beneficial to others here so please have a look.

First off not only am I finicky with my builds in general, but I am even more so when it comes to my brakes. They MUST feel a certain way to me (at the lever). I like my lever pull extremely light, but progressive and smooth.

No matter what I tried I just could not get the front Suntour Rollercams to "feel" right.....if I adjusted the springs too lightly they wouldn't snap the arms back into place.....if I made the springs tighter they'd pop off the top brake arm mounts. The spring comes from the pivot point and goes up and has a hook at the top of it that rests on the top of the brake arm mount as shown here.

The springs' job is to not only provide tension, but mainly to just push the arms INWARD.

So after a few days of deep thought I came up with a simple solution.....first off the stock springs went into the trash.....I then headed to the hardware store to pick up the one piece I needed to put my idea into action. Here it is, SERVA-LITE brand extension spring part #78U.....7/8" length, 9/32 Outside Diameter, .015 wire gauge.

After removing the stock springs simply place all the parts back on the fork and hook this new extension spring onto the two top mounts of the brake arms that the stock springs used to push against, and VOILA......PERFECT feel......smooth and light, and no hassles with spring adjustment at all. (Note - you will need to open up the spring coil ends a bit to fit over the mounts)

If you feel this particular spring is too "light" for you then go ahead and get the Serva-Lite brand spring number 119 shown here, right next to the 78 that I am currently has a bit thicker gauge and is shorter so it will snap back tighter. Feel free to experiment with other springs too.

In any case you want to keep the overall length UNDER one inch, otherwise the arms will not close in all the way.

Brand new Hillman brand chrome brake bridge bolts.

Now make sure to put some Loctite "Tite'n" on your brake bridge bolts, this is a mild strength loctite, and will keep them from coming loose. Put the bolts in and snug them tight, then grab your front brakes and you'll notice the arms won't spring back in so you need to back out a bit on the bolt just enough so that the arms can move freely. You want the bolt just lightly snug in there, not too tight or arms will be restricted, not too loose or arms will have too much back and forth rocking.

This adjustment is comparable to adjusting an air-fuel mixture screw on a carburetor.

Grab your brake pads and check front to back rock motion (keep as minimal as possible). Note - For best results use a 50/50 mix of lithium grease and tri-flo on your inner brake cable, and put Bullshot (or any heavy bearing grease) plus one drop of tri-flo on the 990 mounts.

Also.....if you want Stop-On-A-Dime brakes use Matthauser or even stock Suntour pads. If you want a bit of slip like I do (for G-Turns and other tricks that require feathering of the brake) use these Aztec ones. (Make sure to sand the clearcoat off with 600 grit sandpaper before using any brake pads). I will provide more feedback on these pads once I get some riding time in.

Next issue for me was the upper rear brake cable. With this project my goal was to completely eliminate the need for a Gyro "Y" cable anywhere on this's not that I don't like them, it's just that two seperate cables will always feel better than a Y cable no matter what, and if you need to replace broken cables it is much easier. The lower cable setup was easy, I had seperate cable guides and barrel adjuster poles put on the downtube of the frame and that was it. The upper on the other hand was a nightmare. I bought both Dragonfly Gemini and Snafu Astroglide upper dual cable setups but neither of them fit. The reason - simply the fact that these cables are designed for modern (lower/narrower) bars....I am running full length Peregrine Q bars so the cables would not reach the brake lever. Back to brainstorming.

My idea was to be able to use any common readily available inner cable (so I could not only adjust the length but I could also change cable housing color too). The Odyssey 1.5mm Slic cable has the smaller ball ends that you would normally use at the Gyro body known as Gyro lugs. So I thought if I could somehow make these cable ends work in the Snafu setup that would be ideal.

Here's the two cable ends side by side, stock Snafu end on left, Odyssey Slic gyro lug end on right.

Of course it won't fit as is....not even close.

So I took a 3/16" drill bit and bored the hole out. (Used a Park Chain Breaker to hold the barrel in place)

Success! One side done. (Obviously you do not want to drill all the way through, just bore the upper sections)

Both sides bored out.....from here it's just deburring the edges and reassemble with your desired cable length/color.

Note that I faced the secondary cable stop bracket on the underside so it looks cleaner....also if the bars hit the ground it is less likely to get damaged.

Full shot with new Odyssey Vapor Blue slic cables installed, color matches my frame perfectly.

For knarps on the bottom ends of the cable this is what I used...I got them from the local Harley Davidson dealer, they are called Pin Savers. They basically lock on to the back of a pin so they don't fly off while riding your motorcycle. They are small, have an allen head set screw, and the brake cable fits perfectly inside. The gyro body already has locking set screws but I wanted to add these for an extra measure of safety.

Now at this point I decided to also redo my front brake cable using the same concept. So once again I bought another Odyssey Slic 1.5mm cable and measured it (using the smaller gyro lug ball end again), cut to a bit over desired length, and feed the cut end into the actuator bottom. Note that the actuator bottom is beveled.

The beveling allows the lug end to tuck nicely inside.

For the top half just use a standard type knarp like this. Measure several times before you cut the cable, as there can be none sticking out the end of the knarp.

Perfect! No cable sticking out the bottom, clean and simple. Note that when using this setup you do not even need the set screw, I did keep mine in there for added safety though.

Chain tensioners......I never did use these on any of my bikes before but for this one I needed my axle to be at a specific chainstay length and I didn't want it to shift around. Again trying to keep as clean a look as possible I didn't like the idea of the typical tensioner's metal bracket resting on the dropout ends and the threaded post sticking out the back so here's what I did. I bought a set of Origin 8 tensioners like this.

Modified them by removing the threaded post and the bracket, and replaced it with a cable adjuster barrel from a upper Gyro cable body.

Face the tensioner body in reverse, barrel adjuster facing front of dropout cut. Adjust to proper size needed and you're good to go. You may need to use different size adjuster barrels. I know some use just cut spokes for this same purpose but I wanted something a bit more reliable.

Now comes another due to using old school size American bottom bracket and New School hubs, not sure why, but the chain was offset over a quarter of an inch.....Damnit.....luckily I had the boys of Bikefactory for helping out with this mess. Here's what I had to do...I had to remove the sprocket and all spacers, find the thinnest bottom bracket bearing cover spacer I could find (thanks to Dennis Toyoda of Bikefactory Ala Moana) put the sprocket on right after the bearing cover and space the crank arms out accordingly.

That was still not enough, so I had to figure out a way to opposingly space out the rear cog too. One call to Duane Franklin of Bikefactory Waipio was all that was needed, Homeboy really knows his stuff. He came to the rescue with a Problem Solvers brand (how appropriate of a name, lol) 3mm spacer for my cog, shown here installed, moving the 12t cog a bit more outboard.

Looking good......

Time to check things out with my homemade GHETTO FABULOUS laser pointer chain alignment tool, LOL. (Note - If you are going to duplicate this setup make sure you check aligment of laser pointer pen with a yardstick against sprocket before using)

Follow the laser line down the chain......PERFECT!


And now just some random pics.

The blueprints I drew up for Rick.

Frame build pics. (From my "Sneak Peek" thread)

Absolutely amazing detail work in the welding.

Dual brake cable guides and barrel adjuster poles as requested on my blueprints to eliminate the necessity of a Gyro Y cable.

I was finicky as Hell.....must have drove Rick insane, even the holes on the rear platform ends had to match the original USA made Trick Star frame...LOL. He also moved my brake plate a bit more up since I wasn't using it anyway in case I wanted to run my back wheel all the way forward.

Once frame was done it was shipped directly to Chip at C4 Labs for powdercoating.

Trying to find the right color I wanted......another nightmare, color swatches from three different powdercoaters to try to match Odyssey Ocean Blue.....this alone took over a month!

The day I got the frame back from C4 Labs, as you can see Rick followed my blueprints to a "T". And I got a cool shirt too! :lol:


All fork modification work was done by Rick are some pics.

Basic fork plans I sent him along with 5 pages of VERY detailed pics and notes, LOL.

First issue at hand was to create a bearing reducer sleeve, as the linear bearing we normally use is sized for the original old school 1" Hutch fork steerer tube shown here......we needed to get it to fit in the new Odyssey 1 and 1/8" fork.

Here he is cutting a reducer sleeve.

Test fit with reducer sleeve, linear bearing, and actuator shaft. Perfect!

Next was to weld new 990 mounts in the appropriate spot to accept brake bridge. Now you're probably asking why I went with the R25 fork instead of the F25 which already has 990 mounts....simple, the F25 mounts are not spaced 3 and 3/8'" apart which is what is needed to accomodate the brake bridge, they are also at the wrong height for the brake pad to reach the rim.

Now to check again by lining up brake arms/pads with rim. Upper rollers perfectly parallel so they won't bind. Brake bridge was covered in masking tape to prevent scratches as it was already show polished.

After that actuator is completed.

Test fit again, check functioning of actuator, no binding, etc.

Once I got the parts back from Rick it was time for clean up and repolish. Here I was grinding down front face weld of actuator.

Once done off it went to Matt Jones for a repolish....came out beautiful. (Whole actuator is made of stainless steel)


Now it wasn't all headaches with this build, most of it was FUN, especially the decals. My favorite of all was the head tube decal. I wanted something really I asked Woody's permission if I could use his name on my decals, of course he was stoked and loved the idea.

I started off with a scan of an original Hutch Invasion Tour Weapon decal.

Had the upper area wording changed (as this is not a Hutch), then printed it out on a piece of paper. Next I cut out the "Invasion Tour Weapon" lettering and recreated my own design.

The finished product from Derek at Del-Cals....this guy is the MASTER of decal work.


That's all for now.......any questions feel free to ask away!


Last edited by diablo (2014-02-03 11:21am)

To be old and wise you must first be young and stupid......



#2 2013-05-09 6:26pm

AdminPedal Peddler
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Signed up: 2009-11-22
Posts: 23675
Bikes: 11
For Sale: 131

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Well now, let me go get some coffee and read this whole bad boy.  Great write up, man!  Great looking bike too.  Thanks for sharing all the details.

I won't be able to ship until about 12/10/22.  Communication will be pretty good.



#3 2013-05-09 6:29pm

Museum Addict
From: Ontario, Canada
Signed up: 2008-12-02
Posts: 1747

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

F-me in the goat a$$! That thing is AWESOME!

Trying is the first step to failure

Skin on skin or it doesn't go in

Believe none of what you hear and only half of what you see



#4 2013-05-09 6:31pm

Museum Addict
From: Illinois
Signed up: 2009-02-22
Posts: 1086

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!




#5 2013-05-09 6:32pm

Pro Member
From: Maine
Signed up: 2012-05-17
Posts: 773
Bikes: 17

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

WOW that is an amazing project done to perfection. Beautiful bike! :cool:

87 GT Power Series Right Side Crank Arm 180mm 87 SR Stamped(Drive side)



#6 2013-05-09 6:37pm

Centurion Member
From: Philadelphia, PA
Signed up: 2010-09-03
Posts: 246
Bikes: 10

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Wow! Awesome build and write up. Looks like a crazy adventure with this build.  you must have given Rick a major headache :lol:

I Am Looking For Anything Standard Byke Co. Related



#7 2013-05-09 6:37pm

Rider's Ready...Watch The Gate!
From: Wyoming
Signed up: 2009-06-13
Posts: 2691
Bikes: 12

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Your build is beautiful,well executed,and well planned.Must have taken a lot to get everything dialed and it show's!!Congrat's to everyone who had a hand in it........Well done & just incredible!!!

Highest Ranking Officer of the Wyoming faction...Proudly!



#8 2013-05-09 6:43pm

BMXer 4 Life
From: Philly Burbs
Signed up: 2011-08-04
Posts: 4482
Bikes: 23

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Holy shit!!! That is an amazing build nd story. And I thought I had issues when doin a full on build!!!!!

"Why do I need a bag for my dimes?" asked a wise man once...



#9 2013-05-09 6:47pm

Pro MemberWAYYYY in the red since 1983
From: Mt. E., NJ/ NOLA
Signed up: 2006-12-31
Posts: 13469
Bikes: 10

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Nicely detailed project. Let's see it on a ramp now. :D

Sometimes, to make a paradise, you gotta release a SERPENT.



#10 2013-05-09 6:47pm

Pro MemberWild Wheels
From: NY
Signed up: 2010-06-26
Posts: 7137
Bikes: 1
For Sale: 1

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

WOW - Great custom - incredible engineering - super nice write up

82-86 NBL / Freestyl'n 83-86



#11 2013-05-09 6:49pm

Pro Member
From: Ventura, Californiastan
Signed up: 2012-04-25
Posts: 556
Bikes: 3
For Sale: 1

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Wow!!! <--- an understatement.

Ethan Boyle
Old School flatland '84-88' era, Ventura, Ca.



#12 2013-05-09 6:55pm

From: Illinois
Signed up: 2012-08-29
Posts: 368
Bikes: 4

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Wow! Just wow!



#13 2013-05-09 6:56pm

Pro Member
From: sunny Manchester England
Signed up: 2009-08-12
Posts: 1269
Bikes: 10
For Sale: 14

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Quality all the way! superb attention to detail, well done dude. Sweet ride :cool:

Got a set of Knight bike co sith bars? Then shoot me a price please :)



#14 2013-05-09 6:58pm

Museum Addict
From: Columbus, OH
Signed up: 2009-02-26
Posts: 2347

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Fantastic. Simply great.



#15 2013-05-09 7:04pm

Museum Addict
From: Calgary, Canada
Signed up: 2008-12-31
Posts: 1562
Bikes: 2

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Trick. :cool:

All i want to buy is a cyclecraft made BLOCK.



#16 2013-05-09 7:14pm

From: Fredericksburg, VA
Signed up: 2010-08-31
Posts: 837
Bikes: 6

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Badass again my friend.  You never disappoint.

Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs!



#17 2013-05-09 7:28pm

Museum Addict
From: Oahu, HI
Signed up: 2009-09-15
Posts: 1043
Bikes: 5

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Beautiful as usual! I got to see it before it was done, and it was already awesome... :cool:



#18 2013-05-09 7:29pm

From: east coast
Signed up: 2012-07-01
Posts: 367

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!




#19 2013-05-09 7:30pm

Pro Member
From: Wabash, IN
Signed up: 2008-06-15
Posts: 2425
Bikes: 4

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Amazing :cool: Soooo much attention to detail. Also no matter what it took you didn't compromise :cool::cool: Great build once again

O.G.O.A.R Club- Life Member



#20 2013-05-09 7:31pm

Centurion Member
From: Houston, TX
Signed up: 2008-07-08
Posts: 179

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Nice work, how does it ride?

I come here to look at bikes...



#21 2013-05-09 7:36pm

More period correct than Jeff's Menstrual Cycle
From: Indianapolis
Signed up: 2012-03-21
Posts: 1362
Bikes: 5

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Mm great read with an amazing product to back up your meticulous nature... Truly enjoyed all of your small touches and attention to detail throughout.  Awesome man

*Gold 1st/2ng Gen Profile threadless stem!!!
*NICE Kegels Padset
*OG Black Kastan Padset
**PayPal Ready**
**Plenty to trade**



#22 2013-05-09 7:36pm

Pro Member
From: CapTex
Signed up: 2009-12-21
Posts: 1083
Bikes: 11
For Sale: 2

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

franticbmx wrote:

Trick. :cool:

Exactly what I was thinking the entire time....TRICK AS F&@K!!! :o

Looking for a MOOSE——Goose frame/fork



#23 2013-05-09 7:48pm

Museum Addict
From: Columbus, OH
Signed up: 2010-10-12
Posts: 1044
Bikes: 4

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Ow. My chin is cut from my jaw slapping the desk.

Absolutely unreal.

I thrashed your grail, and I loved every second of it.



#24 2013-05-09 7:55pm

Old School Fool
From: Hawaii
Signed up: 2008-03-31
Posts: 1643
Bikes: 7

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!


Thanks guys for all the kind words....this build kicked my @$$, ha ha! But I LOVE it!!

And no ramps for me, I am a flatlander by heart.


To be old and wise you must first be young and stupid......



#25 2013-05-09 8:00pm

Signed up: 2011-11-15
Posts: 7198
Bikes: 27

Re: AT LAST! 2013 SBC Itson Pro Model is DONE! Hey you Trick Star lovers!

Very cool. I like how it turned out. Attention to detail. :cool:

I can not sit still. I have been tested for A.D.D. and A.D.H.D. and have neither. I don't need coffee, I just need a B.M.X. or surfboard to consistently ride and I'll be happy. :)
INSTAGRAM: @calivwbus          CHECK OUT MY YOUTUBE VIDEOS. SEARCH: calivwbus



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