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Custom Painted Helmets  RSS Feed

#51 2019-05-15 6:33pm

blammo585
Pro MemberDyno Lover!
Registered: 2013-02-17
Posts: 2389
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Re: Custom Painted Helmets

STREETBEATBEAST wrote:

blammo585 wrote:

STREETBEATBEAST wrote:


Ah ok..and I see you used satin. How'd the paint hold up against chips or spider cracking?

My friend has a 06 Mirra Air 540 in burgundy so I was kind of trying to match that, and it looks pretty close. You can see in the pics that the paint looks even and smooth. It doesn't have any cracking. I ran my fingernails over it and tried scratching it and it held up. If it gets an actual crash I don't know what it will do, but likely any helmet will get scarred up from the right crash.

Sure I realize that, I'm just trying to make all my efforts last as long as possible.
I did contact PRO TEC about a gloss navy blue  helmet which they DID PRODUCE but they were all but in my face rude..

You won't get anywhere with the companies. Most helmets have a warning on them about painting them.

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#52 2019-05-15 6:44pm

STREETBEATBEAST
Pro MemberSKYWAY SENSAI
From: North America-Canada
Registered: 2009-10-30
Posts: 5684
Bikes: 1

Re: Custom Painted Helmets

blammo585 wrote:

STREETBEATBEAST wrote:

blammo585 wrote:


My friend has a 06 Mirra Air 540 in burgundy so I was kind of trying to match that, and it looks pretty close. You can see in the pics that the paint looks even and smooth. It doesn't have any cracking. I ran my fingernails over it and tried scratching it and it held up. If it gets an actual crash I don't know what it will do, but likely any helmet will get scarred up from the right crash.

Sure I realize that, I'm just trying to make all my efforts last as long as possible.
I did contact PRO TEC about a gloss navy blue  helmet which they DID PRODUCE but they were all but in my face rude..

You won't get anywhere with the companies. Most helmets have a warning on them about painting them.

I know..I just was asking about the colour the already produced..
And then,..lol when I said I was across the border (still north America btw) he went from offering a discount to rude bitch..


Heres my profound, life changing statement.
Lifes a bitch..PASS ME A BEER.

They're reacting and that's wonderful. It's better than them sitting there doing nothing. I say make them react - do whatever's in your power to move the audience, and if that's where it is, and there where it is with America, sex and violence, then I say project it.
ALICE COOPER

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#53 2019-05-16 1:34pm

STREETBEATBEAST
Pro MemberSKYWAY SENSAI
From: North America-Canada
Registered: 2009-10-30
Posts: 5684
Bikes: 1

Re: Custom Painted Helmets

I wish some of our professional painter members would give me there knowledge on what paints/primers to use.


Heres my profound, life changing statement.
Lifes a bitch..PASS ME A BEER.

They're reacting and that's wonderful. It's better than them sitting there doing nothing. I say make them react - do whatever's in your power to move the audience, and if that's where it is, and there where it is with America, sex and violence, then I say project it.
ALICE COOPER

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#54 2019-05-16 2:21pm

severed701
Pro Member
From: North Dakota
Registered: 2009-02-24
Posts: 1986

Re: Custom Painted Helmets

It is not so much about what the part you are painting is made out of, it matters what the actual surface you are trying to apply paint to is. So for example if you have a plastic helmet that has a paint or coating on it already, you are not trying to get paint to stick to plastic, you are applying paint to another coating, etc. So determining what you have is step 1. If you are applying paint to a raw or bare plastic surface it needs to be slightly abraded and more importantly cleaned of any contaminants such as wax and mold release. having the part clean of all of these is more critical on bare plastic than sanding is. I cannot speak on most rattle can products as i do not use them but as a general rule you need to apply some sort of adhesion promoter before applying a primer sealer. its generally assumed that everything must be "primed" before painting. This is not always the case. If you have a painted surface that is in good shape, you can most certainly apply a top coat without priming it as long as the color is not out of the ballpark for what your topcoat can be applied over IE probably not wise to put a transparent color over black, etc. Matte vs clear finish has nothing to do with how well a top coat will stick, both surfaces need to be scuffed in order for anything to stick to them. In the automotive world there are two main types of "primers"...these are primer sealers, and primer surfacers.  A sealer is used to establish a uniform surface before topcoating and is generally applied in a "wet on wet" application, without sanding before topcoating. a primer surfacer is meant to level and fill imperfections before a primer sealer or topcoat is applied.


I see many people have issues with rattle can paint projects and people throw all sorts of wild ideas out there as to what the causes are. Bottom line is this, all coatings have what is referred to as a sensitivity window. This is more common with aerosol products because in general they are a 1k (thermoplastic) product. This means that they do not ever CURE, they only DRY. There is no chemical reaction like a two part product (thermoset). you are simply relying on solvents to escape after the product is applied in order for it to "dry". There are also exceptions to this, there are certain products that start off acting like a thermoplastic and then turn into a thermoset (waterborn latex is one example)  Im not a chemist so i cannot explain exactly what happens but in simple terms, you have a window where a few things are a possibility *(

1: the product is dry, but not dry enough to not be able to accept another coat
2: the product is dry, and to the point where applying another coat allows solvents to penetrate and re-wet the surface, resulting in wrinkling/lifting
3: the product is dry, and has been long enough to where its dried to the point of being stable enough to be scuffed and accept more paint without wrinkling or lifting

a GENERAL timeline of that window is this, you must re-apply WITHIN 4-6 hours or AFTER 24-48 hours.
there are ALWAYS exceptions to every rule, and temperature, humidity, and airflow has a direct impact on how paint dries and acts etc. we could go way deep into this stuff but i wont.

I hope this is a little help.


Recovering Haro hoarder.

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#55 2019-05-17 8:24am

STREETBEATBEAST
Pro MemberSKYWAY SENSAI
From: North America-Canada
Registered: 2009-10-30
Posts: 5684
Bikes: 1

Re: Custom Painted Helmets

severed701 wrote:

It is not so much about what the part you are painting is made out of, it matters what the actual surface you are trying to apply paint to is. So for example if you have a plastic helmet that has a paint or coating on it already, you are not trying to get paint to stick to plastic, you are applying paint to another coating, etc. So determining what you have is step 1. If you are applying paint to a raw or bare plastic surface it needs to be slightly abraded and more importantly cleaned of any contaminants such as wax and mold release. having the part clean of all of these is more critical on bare plastic than sanding is. I cannot speak on most rattle can products as i do not use them but as a general rule you need to apply some sort of adhesion promoter before applying a primer sealer. its generally assumed that everything must be "primed" before painting. This is not always the case. If you have a painted surface that is in good shape, you can most certainly apply a top coat without priming it as long as the color is not out of the ballpark for what your topcoat can be applied over IE probably not wise to put a transparent color over black, etc. Matte vs clear finish has nothing to do with how well a top coat will stick, both surfaces need to be scuffed in order for anything to stick to them. In the automotive world there are two main types of "primers"...these are primer sealers, and primer surfacers.  A sealer is used to establish a uniform surface before topcoating and is generally applied in a "wet on wet" application, without sanding before topcoating. a primer surfacer is meant to level and fill imperfections before a primer sealer or topcoat is applied.


I see many people have issues with rattle can paint projects and people throw all sorts of wild ideas out there as to what the causes are. Bottom line is this, all coatings have what is referred to as a sensitivity window. This is more common with aerosol products because in general they are a 1k (thermoplastic) product. This means that they do not ever CURE, they only DRY. There is no chemical reaction like a two part product (thermoset). you are simply relying on solvents to escape after the product is applied in order for it to "dry". There are also exceptions to this, there are certain products that start off acting like a thermoplastic and then turn into a thermoset (waterborn latex is one example)  Im not a chemist so i cannot explain exactly what happens but in simple terms, you have a window where a few things are a possibility *(

1: the product is dry, but not dry enough to not be able to accept another coat
2: the product is dry, and to the point where applying another coat allows solvents to penetrate and re-wet the surface, resulting in wrinkling/lifting
3: the product is dry, and has been long enough to where its dried to the point of being stable enough to be scuffed and accept more paint without wrinkling or lifting

a GENERAL timeline of that window is this, you must re-apply WITHIN 4-6 hours or AFTER 24-48 hours.
there are ALWAYS exceptions to every rule, and temperature, humidity, and airflow has a direct impact on how paint dries and acts etc. we could go way deep into this stuff but i wont.

I hope this is a little help.

Yes, thank you and I did read it all.
And yes, lately I have been experiencing that wrinkling issue. Drives me nuts as I never experienced this many years back. I assume it's mainly due to CHANGE OF TODAY'S PAINT DYNAMICS (paint formulas and how they act), because I always clean thoroughly.
I am a NATURAL BORN ARTIS ©®™/designer and have painted and fabricated since I was a kid. More than 34 years. I do "know" proper sanding/cleaning/painting techniques, yet still having difficulties with today's paints and I do believe it has allot to do with temperatures as well as the solvents/wet times being so sketchy.

I've been using allot of DUPLI COLOR products and have had VERY GOOD RESULTS, but also had the wrinkling issues literally arise quite often. It's time, effort,  and money consuming as well as extremely patience trying when you put so much effort into "DOIN IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME" just for it to screw up your finish. Madiding at times.

So what you say does help a great deal. It's a patience and time planning thing as well. I'll bet, if I were to get up early on a warm Saturday, like most people do..it would give me the best temperatures, and enough work time to fall within the perramiter you've mentioned (4-6 or 24-48 hour paint time windows)

I'm planning on using a FACTORY NEW PRO TEC matte finish helmet.
I wondering if I should use autimotive DUPLI COLOR or
KRYLON PLASTIC paints.
What's a better idea?

I would first lightly scuff/sand the NEW FACTORY FINISH.
I would then clean with alcohol to remove all contaminants.
I would then spray an ADHEISION PROMOTER.

I usually would, at this point scuff/sand and clean between each new coat of primer, sealer, color, and clear top coat.

Is this correct or overkill?


Heres my profound, life changing statement.
Lifes a bitch..PASS ME A BEER.

They're reacting and that's wonderful. It's better than them sitting there doing nothing. I say make them react - do whatever's in your power to move the audience, and if that's where it is, and there where it is with America, sex and violence, then I say project it.
ALICE COOPER

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#56 2019-05-17 11:14am

severed701
Pro Member
From: North Dakota
Registered: 2009-02-24
Posts: 1986

Re: Custom Painted Helmets

I unfortunately dont have alot of experience doing a full paint job with aerosol cans, but generally its not necessary or recommended to sand between coats when doing a paint job. I can see the advantage with spray cans because they tend to not lay out as smooth, and paint going over a sanded smooth surface is always going to lend itself to a smoother overall finish vs putting more layers over an already not so smooth surface as each additional layer is going to follow the texture of whats under it. However due to the dry times and sensitivity windows with aerosol you wil either extend the job time significantly or if its done too quickly you can increase the chance for lifting. As far as your helmet project, you would be fine spraying directly over the sanded original finish, provided the topcoat color lends well to covering over it, and that you have scuffed it with a fine enough grit to not show scratches. Adhesion promoters are generally for allowing things to stick better to a raw plastic surface, but i know there are some out there that are for other surfaces, my knowledge of these is limited but i think those are typically referred to as "superglue technology" which means its just a substance that will stick somewhat well to the surface and the topcoat will stick well to that. You are not really getting the typical mechanical or chemical reaction type bond. Ive done plenty of custom and non custom paint jobs where i have basecoated directly over a sanded previous paint job without any additional products and this works very well.


Recovering Haro hoarder.

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#57 2019-05-17 11:25am

FRESSTYLE FREEK
Pro Member(fantstik Spellr)
From: Fountain Valley, CA
Registered: 2007-06-28
Posts: 21831
Bikes: 79

Re: Custom Painted Helmets

if you don't do proper prep work it flakes off over time. lol mine did!
http://uploads.bmxmuseum.com/user-images/6905/dsc012255cdefc827c.jpg


Kindness is like Manure does You No Good unless You spread It around
bikes were made to be pedalled if we don't ride them they get sad:(!
YES I RIDE A PINK BIKE!! WANT TO MAKE SOME THING OUT OF IT!

2017 heavyweight build off entry submission thread link
http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.p … 0#p5846730

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#58 2019-05-17 4:27pm

STREETBEATBEAST
Pro MemberSKYWAY SENSAI
From: North America-Canada
Registered: 2009-10-30
Posts: 5684
Bikes: 1

Re: Custom Painted Helmets

FRESSTYLE FREEK wrote:

if you don't do proper prep work it flakes off over time. lol mine did!
http://uploads.bmxmuseum.com/user-image … fc827c.jpg

Still cool lookin


Heres my profound, life changing statement.
Lifes a bitch..PASS ME A BEER.

They're reacting and that's wonderful. It's better than them sitting there doing nothing. I say make them react - do whatever's in your power to move the audience, and if that's where it is, and there where it is with America, sex and violence, then I say project it.
ALICE COOPER

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#59 2019-05-17 6:51pm

ricar
Pro Member
From: Waterdown On Canada
Registered: 2015-02-28
Posts: 1174
Bikes: 1

Re: Custom Painted Helmets

Visors always seem to crack. I guess they are jest too flexible.


Every time I get on my bike I win. Ms.BMX.

I don't have enough faith to believe in evolution.

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