1988 Dyno Detour
All black with a touch of pink and aqua! An awesome combination!
Love straight up black. But had to add some pink to match the decals. (Thanks to "Dynocrazy" for the decal work!)
So I restored a Spin-tech in pink as well. The Spin-tech modification was pretty tuff. I'll share some secrets of the "Murray Mod" after my parts list. - lol
- Dyno Drain-pipe
- Dyno Pretzel Bars
- GT Air Bag Tires
- GT Cheesegrater Sprocket
- GT Forkstands
- GT Pedals
- GT Signature A'me Grips
- GT Seat
- GT Tomahawk Mags
- Odi Bearing Cap
- Odyssey RX-3 Levers
- Odyssey RX-2 Seat Clamp
- Odyssey 2000 Brakes
- Odyssey London Mod
First off. It's pretty easy to find a Spin-tech posted on the Museum or eBay from time to time. Most come with just the stem and the rotor. Unless your buying a NOS complete kit it's the small parts that are a pain to find. Although I have found all the parts in my searches, I've decided to keep those for a future build and use my modifications for this one.
The set up:
The Spin-tech was originally designed with the 87' Pro Compe in mind, which has the the lower 990 mounts. So the cable runs along the bottom tube. Most Dyno's from 1988 on, however, have one cool feature. The frame cable mount is center the upper frame tube. What I did, from a little advice from greg zts, was purchase off Dan's Compe the Odyssey London Mod. This mod allows two cables to run side by side. I took this mod and mounted it through the upper frame tube cable guide. I also took a 5 inch metal iron piece, drilled a hole in each end, bent each end, and mounted it to the upper frame tube using the London mod and upper cable guide. Then I took a cable guide and ran it through opposite direction through the opposite hole of the metal iron piece. (See additional pictures) This way I was able to mount the cable guides and not have to drill a hole in my frame.
Upper cable guide that goes into the stem: Surprisingly a basic cable guide has the same thread as a 990 mount bolt. You can cut an old 990 mount off an old frame or fork. Using every restorers basic tool, a grinder and a wire wheel, you can round the cut end and smooth it down. Then screw in the cable guide. Walla! Or you can go to Home Depot and get a 1" aluminum spacer that matches the exact size of an original barrel adjuster. Using the correct tap and die thread the inside of the spacer to accomodate the adjuster. Finally use a grinding wheel and round the end.
Upper headset cup: If you do not have the original head tube cup try just using an odyssey gyro lower guide. Fortunately for this build I had an original cup.
The cables: You do not need to buy some expensive special cables for the lower cables. Just go to Wal-Mart and buy their $5.00 brake cable pack. The 2 cables in there have exactly what you need on the end that you would usually snip off. Just flip the cables and use the other end.
Lower cable connector: This is one of the most difficult pieces to find. What I did was I took part of a small door hinge that has 3 holes and modified it. I rounded the edges using a grinder and then smoothed the edges using a wire wheel. Using a drill I made the 2 forward holes bigger and inserted cable stops.
Of course nothing beats the original pieces. So always keep an eye out on eBay or the Museum.
Submitted by ChristianHetheMurray