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BridgeCity wrote:

i just put enough water to cover the parts, then sprinkle the lye on them, it works quite rapidly and doesn't take much.

easyoff if you like.  a big can of lye is about 3 bucks that'll last forever. easy off is probably a lot more for much less.

OK thanks. I'll probably try the oven cleaner first and see how that goes. If it doesn't get it good enough, I'll try the Lye.

Mike

easy off oven cleaner.

nice tips there   was thinking of trying some of that metal cast paint on some cheap builds   thanks

here is an example of a polished powerdisc.  This is almost 20 years after it was polished.
If you want to keep the mirror like finish, a topcoat would be good.  Something that won't scuff off with use would be good.  A clear powdercoating would be optimal.

OLDSCHOOLBMXER67 wrote:

easy off oven cleaner.

i just had to do this for skywayray after seeing his rim, i spent $4.59 on the way home. this is how i always did it, picked it somewhere when i was 14-15 stripping suntour black pedal cages that just didn't match red/blue/chrome. done it ever since, bright anno on car trim too. don't get the good smelling stuff, get the heavy duty.

i slip a plastic bag over cardboard and soak it on top, it was 47 degrees at the time, no heat.

here's after 40 min

it turns the color black, i use a brillo pad soaked in lemon joy so it isn't too rough. this was a 2 minute scub

here's after 15, i could have broke out the toothbrush...


my friend is getting a batch of blue anno done, so i will have him buff and throw in. yes, bridgecity, the can says contains lye, right on. there you go ray, super easy.

i used krylon x metals to do my ano. it left a glossy finish. any of those other metal paints leave a more true ano look?   thanks     tim

Good info here.  I used the advice to re-do a seatclamp I wanted red. 3 coats was too dark, so I had to re-strip it and do 2 coats.  Only problems was the finish isn't very durable, it easily scratches off.  Also it seemed to dry slightly rough.  I solved the rough finish problem by baking it on with a heatgun which smoothed it out and surprisingly made it look more real.  For the durability issue I went to my favorite durable clear coat ( which I used when I redidi my Kitchen cabinets which stands up to constant daily abuse), Minwax Polycrylic spray.  It s a fast drying water-based clear spray that is part acrylic part polyurethane, and it doesn't yellow like the clear coat I used to use.  You can get it Home Depot or Lowes and the semi-gloss looks pretty good, but you can get satin or gloss if you want to expiriment.  Satin looked too dull for my taste.

skywayray wrote:

Do you have a pic of the Minwax poly spray? sounds like fun to me. I like everything glossy.It's true what you said, cheap clear coats not only turns yellow, at times it even changes the actualy color of the original finish. I think bmx museum should have a hardware store so we can buy directly here, thus contributing to it at the same time.

Good idea on the store thing.  I usually get mine at Lowes or Home Depot since i'm usually there a few times a week, but it costs about $8.99 a can.  This ebay listing has all 3 types shown:


http://item.express.ebay.com/Industrial … xpressItem

I don't mean to dig up old threads, but this was a good one. Submerse your aluminum anodized part (completely) into draino. It takes 5-10 minutes before the anodizing is gone. If you use Oven cleaner make sure it's not the "fume free" because it stuff it doesn't work. If you leave your part in to long it will go black, hence why your chain wheel went black. Even though the color is still apparent on the aluminum part it will rinse away. 5-10 minutes only.

Great post, good info