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Sweet nice save:D

Where did you find that Curtis? Here in Apopka?

webco's are sweet.

Not yet Curtis. I have been very busy and havent touched the thing in 4 days. I am looking for a good local powder coater now. I will get some pics up soon.

Last edited by Robertlee (2012-04-10 3:36am)

Ok I got a few pics to post. Ive been having alot of fun cleaning this thing up except for a couple of issues not resolved yet like matching a powder coat, decals, and a nice era correct seat post. I disassembled the bike completely except for the front wheel. I cleaned all of the parts with a rag and soft bristle brush. I then placed the cranks(stamped 76'), bb, chain wheel, spokes, rear hubs, head tub parts, stem, and seat clamp in a 4 oz/ gal CA solution. Every couple of hours I took a soft brush and lightly scrubbed off the foreign crap. Over time it just all fell off and didnt affect the OG finish at all. After 24 hours I pulled the parts out one by one, washing with water very well, air dryed them, then put a light coat of thin oil to protect them. Over the next week or so I began polishing and dressing the parts up on my polisher. Hand polished each and every spoke/ nipple. But I want to keep this bike as original as possible. I found that the bb races had significant pitting as well the head tube had significant pitting in the races, fork race, and the top bearing nut was pretty ruff. So I got a real nice era correct schwimm bb and **Scwhinn**HT from KenC. Thanks Ken. The stem has lost over 50% of its finish which is kind of interesting because the finish is chipped off. I thought this stuff was a Phosphate finish or something. Maybe it was painted when the frame was. So I will find a match for that and powder coat or paint it unfortunetly. It is also stamped 76'. The rear coaster brake had a broken spring so I was able to find a Og shimano type B rebuild kit. That all done and Im very happy with how clean the coaster brake turned out. I still have to finish with front & rear rim itself but I have to order more CA
I found a nice set of era correct box bars, messinger seat in VCG , MX grips in great shape(soaking them now to clean out the dust and dirt out of the cracks). Anyhow thats where I am at. Tell me what you think.

Last edited by Robertlee (2012-04-26 5:01pm)

Hey Tony thanks alot. I may end up painting the bike over the powder coat. Dont know yet for sure but I ve talked to multiple powdercoaters and they all have said its going to be hard to match. I beleve the color is out there but I know I can take the frame to the local paint supply store and get pretty much an exact match. Let me know when you get some pics of yours up. Id like to see it.

Last edited by Robertlee (2012-04-14 11:37am)

Ok so I had some questions about the Og finish on my Ashtabula parts. My stem and forks have been painted and both had significant chips and scraps. The forks werent terribly bad but the stem had lost over 50% of the paint. Under the chips I can plainly see the flat black surface just like my Ashi cranks. Pics wll be posted.  I contacted MonsterRobot for his opinion on it. He reaffirmed and concurred my memory of an article I read on the speculation of the what parts were coated with BITD and that they were not painted FTF. Monter stated kids would paint them though because they didnt like the flat black, esp when the freestyle age came around.
I google searched ZincPhosphate coating and found a place about 5 miles from my home that I had been too quit a few times looking into getting my PCIII rims reaanoed in the og finish, which he can do. Anyhow I went down there and this is what I learned. This is my response to Monster who told me to take GOOD notes. Mystery on the coating is now definitively solved.
OK I got the downlow on the Webco parts. The mans name is Dave, one of the owners, said with 100% confidence that the parts are coated in a Manganese Phosphate coating. He said they have been coated parts using Zinc and manganese for 20 years. They do alot of parts for military guns. Points he educated me on are-

1. If you can scratch the surface with your nail and it leaves that little white scatch its a dead give away that its a phosphate coating. The scratch will disappear with just the oil from your fingers rubbing over it.

2. Zinc phosphate is more of a grey. There are two primary zinc coatings, light and heavy, and typically used as a base coat for paint on bare metal. A heavy example would be a tank or heavy equipment that if the paint were chipped the thickness of the zinc phosphate,  actually measured in weight, would still be there to protect the metal.

3. Manganese phosphate is darker. I seen some military machine gun parts he just pulled out of the oven and they were identical to the webco crank coating. Except newer and fresher looking. Beautiful I must say. Kinda felt like I struck gold. He said that under a scope it has a spongy or very pourous like surface that holds oil well, thus protecting the part. These parts will stay in this coating on the guns. No paint is used. Oil needs to be kept on them and also dresses the part up.

His minimum price is $85.00. I had the stem, forks and neck and it was 85.00. He did say he was suprised to see that the parts werent painted though FTF because of the need to keep these coatings well oiled. Which im sure very few kids every did.

Here is a link to his website. His name is Dave and please tell him Rob sent you. I told him without a doubt these two products he produces will get business from the BMX community. "It didnt help, lol. I tried. The minimum is the minimum. I do not get any kick backs or breaks. Maybe someday but not yet. They do alot gun pieces for the military which require very stringant specs but he said he doesnt mind do the stuff for us at all. But he has to pull someone away from his main obligation to do this stuff. Understandable. Dave is very professional and stopped what he was doing and spent 30 or so minutes educated me on both processes.
The Proclass III stuff I will post in another post I created because I had a question. The link to this thread is -

http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.p … 9#p3461089

Hope this info has helped.

http://www.pmforlando.com/html/phosphate.shtml

PS- If anyone contacts him PLEASE be respectful. I dont want him to get annoyed dealing with us always trying to nickle and dime him on his price. He darn sure doesnt need this work. Thanks

Im still looking for a good deal on a nice set of era correct quality rat traps for my 76.

Last edited by Robertlee (2012-07-10 7:42pm)

Thanks old school.

here some peddles
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Schwinn … 589370953f
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-MKS-9-1 … 19d001c521
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-LOT-OF- … 3a7370d08f

yeay i saw that. i cant wait to see how it turns out, i have to wait to  finish mine, i have everthing to finish the build, but some wingnut hit and run my car while parked so finding a new car is on my priority list.

Hi Gary, Thanks alot man. I just finished the final hand polish on the rear rim and it looks great! Ill post pics tomorrow. Worked most of today on the pressure pot for the blasting cabinet:( 
No thats not the stem you sent, the stem you sent me has a 80 or 81 date code. Mine is the og 76 dated Ash. It is coated in the manganese phosphate though im pretty sure unless they changed later on. Ill look tomorrow.

Last edited by Robertlee (2012-04-25 2:35pm)

Got my cabinet up and running today. Took most the day but I have some pics to share of the Ash stem and forks.
Gary I didnt get a chance to look at the stem I got from you yet. I did look at mine and what I thought was a date code is is a G16, I think, which before I thought was a G76. It is OG to the bike and the forks, and cranks are stamped 76'. I know earlier I said that I thought the forks were stamped 78" but after media blasting im pretty sure its a 76.
I didnt have to media blast the cranks because they werent painted. Dave said they would take care of that. He just didnt want paint chips contamintating his media or something like that.

Due to all the repaint this refurbish has evolved into basically a restoration. But I keep telling myself at least it will be all OG except a few era correct parts that were missing. And the OG parts still have some beauty marks and patina.

Before pics:



Post media blasting:


Just dropped off the parts to have the new Manganese Phospahte reapplied. They said it will take a week or two. I will post the pics when I get them.

Last edited by Robertlee (2012-04-26 9:52am)