Spray Can Painting project - Huffy Primus  RSS Feed

#1 2012-11-05 7:04am

Fatboy
Pro Member"He's just Big Boned"
From: Seffner, FL
Registered: 2008-11-15
Posts: 1971
Bikes: 83
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Spray Can Painting project - Huffy Primus

I've started this project and thought I'd post it up.
I hear a lot of members talk about how it's hard to get a good paint job with a spray can.

I will admit that spray paint is not as durable as high end automotive paint or powder, but you can get an excellent looking job.

The frame has a broze spray on it already, and looks like the original Red color was stripped.
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7574.jpg
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7575.jpg

I restripped with Aerospace Stripper that I got at Walmart
It's messy, and the chemicals are bad -don't let them touch you or get in your eyes -spray away from you, protect any nearby surfaces.
I will occasionaly get some transferred to me while scraping, and it burns and must be washed off asap.
I wear a breathig mask - just a cheap one, and I wear big rubberized gloves ( I wear glasses too - but you may want goggles)
I finally got a large wire brush and had better removal with that. 
The bits that fall off will still be sticky and will stick back to the frame, so this is a first step, you will need to clean all this off after the initial scraping.

http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7579.jpg

The next step is scrape off the balance and get the clumps of removed paint that has re-adhered off the frame.
I high number or fine steel wool does a goo job.  A fine sand paper might work as well, but will get clogged often with the paint.
I worked on this one for a while and got it pretty clean

http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7580.jpg
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7582.jpg

Next is to mask off the bike and prepare for Primer.  Since this is raw aluminum, it will require primer for the paint to stick and to give a smoother finish. 
I use blue tape on the brake studs and on the dropouts -no point in painting when they will be immediately messed up once a wheel is installed.
I use cardbard tubes to stop paint from getting into the dropouts, steer tube, and seat tube.  Those are made to fit components tightly and should never have paint in them.  My rig allows me to flip the bike over while painting. 
I use the same approach on the components;
After mounting and masking, I wipe the entire bike and parts down with a clean rag with rubbing alcohol.  This is to remove any oils either from the chemicals, or even just from my hands.  That will impede adhesion.

http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7593.jpg
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7592.jpg
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7590.jpg
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7587.jpg

Spray one complete coat of primer.  You can spray, stop, spray, or continuous spay but always overspraying and never stopping.  When you stop is when your paint gets too thick and you get ugly runs.  Keep it moving and get a light coat everywhere.
This drys VERY quickly.  Within 10 minutes it will be dry to the touch and you can check for scrapes, rough spots, or runs.  Use a fine grit sandpaper that's been soaking in water to sand these out (wet-sanding).  Wipe that off with a wet rag and put another coat of primer on.  This should be enough.

http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7595.jpg
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7594.jpg
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7596.jpg
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/IMG_7598.jpg

Once this is dry, you can start the final coat.  Do multiple coats, all within one hour.  You can wait between coats if you want -but you MUST wait 24 hours between each coat, and your paint job won't look any better.  I'll spray the top, flip it over (carefully), spray the bottom.  Let it sit about 10 minutes, usually while I address other components, and then come back and spray top and bottom again, looking for areas that look thin.

After 24 hours of baking in my hot garage, my next step will be to put Decals on and then clear coat.  The clear coat is what will help retain that nice 'wet' shiny look to this job, and will help keep the decals from peeling up over time.

I'll post up more as this progresses.
I have these decals.  They aren't specific to the Primus, but they are era correct and will look good, and were cheap.
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Huffy/KGrHqQOKocE3G8UFYrDBN3n6RliIg_3.jpg

Last edited by Fatboy (2012-11-05 7:17am)


[img]http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Tools%20and%20Tips/BWFooterJN.jpg[/img]
Would Trade stuff for: purple paul v-brakes or purple supercross/bombshell v-brakes, 2000 24" DB Reactor Team frame ,  Voxom and Enigma stuff, Alliant / Radix stem and stuff, JW and Stiffys stuff, dark blue alloy chainring bolts, white sealed threadless headset,  Pink Halo 24" tires, Torker 24 threadless fork, cool late mid-school cruiser parts.  PLEASE PAY AS GOODS - SO I CAN SHIP TO YOU FAST.  Just say "NO" to Parcel Post.

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#2 2012-11-05 7:52am

GTRIDA
Centurion Member
From: Adrian, Michigan
Registered: 2009-06-05
Posts: 227

Re: Spray Can Painting project - Huffy Primus

Looking good!

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#3 2012-11-05 7:57am

tkBMX76
Intermediate
From: Town of Tonawanda,NY
Registered: 2012-10-28
Posts: 418

Re: Spray Can Painting project - Huffy Primus

Thats a great idea using the bars for paint stand. Bike looks good too:cool:

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#4 2012-11-14 6:04am

Fatboy
Pro Member"He's just Big Boned"
From: Seffner, FL
Registered: 2008-11-15
Posts: 1971
Bikes: 83
For Sale
Website

Re: Spray Can Painting project - Huffy Primus

And here's the rub... It looked really good, but I thought it looked thin in places, so I went and got another can.
The manaufacturer changed the formula -new can and different mix.  It sprayed out clumpy and ruined my shiny gloss, and the color was slightly different too.
Now I gotta sand and repaint -and since the color has changed, I have to paint the entire bike to get a consistant color...  Ugh..
Don't use Valspar spray!  It says 'product of the year' on the can -but this stuff sucks now.

The Lesson:  Be happy - perfection is impossible - be satisfied once it is very good.

Last edited by Fatboy (2012-11-14 6:07am)


[img]http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Tools%20and%20Tips/BWFooterJN.jpg[/img]
Would Trade stuff for: purple paul v-brakes or purple supercross/bombshell v-brakes, 2000 24" DB Reactor Team frame ,  Voxom and Enigma stuff, Alliant / Radix stem and stuff, JW and Stiffys stuff, dark blue alloy chainring bolts, white sealed threadless headset,  Pink Halo 24" tires, Torker 24 threadless fork, cool late mid-school cruiser parts.  PLEASE PAY AS GOODS - SO I CAN SHIP TO YOU FAST.  Just say "NO" to Parcel Post.

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#5 2012-12-06 1:30pm

Fatboy
Pro Member"He's just Big Boned"
From: Seffner, FL
Registered: 2008-11-15
Posts: 1971
Bikes: 83
For Sale
Website

Re: Spray Can Painting project - Huffy Primus

Well, I finally decided good enough was good enough.  I was able to put the crank arms and stem in the oven on low heat for a while to bake the paint hard (just don't touch it until it cools or you'll burn the living 'sishh out of your hand)

I put the frame in my attic for a few days (I live in Florida) so that helped harden it up, but not as much as baking it at 180*f to 200 which first puts the paint into a semi-plastic state which helps smooth out flaws (like finger prints) and then cooks out all the vapors which makes it harder and smoother.  I'm thinking about making a frame 'oven' -just a sheet of foil sided insulating panel made into a box and a few heat lamps.  I think it might work.

In the end, the final result was really nice.  I even found an orange seat with blue accents and decent BMX dimensions -and dated year 2000 to boot!

You can Fav it if you like it.
http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=473581

http://bmxmuseum.com/image/imag1654_lg.jpg
http://bmxmuseum.com/image/img_7649_lg.jpg

Last edited by Fatboy (2012-12-06 1:33pm)


[img]http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo116/nowicki13/Tools%20and%20Tips/BWFooterJN.jpg[/img]
Would Trade stuff for: purple paul v-brakes or purple supercross/bombshell v-brakes, 2000 24" DB Reactor Team frame ,  Voxom and Enigma stuff, Alliant / Radix stem and stuff, JW and Stiffys stuff, dark blue alloy chainring bolts, white sealed threadless headset,  Pink Halo 24" tires, Torker 24 threadless fork, cool late mid-school cruiser parts.  PLEASE PAY AS GOODS - SO I CAN SHIP TO YOU FAST.  Just say "NO" to Parcel Post.

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#6 2012-12-06 3:37pm

GTRIDA
Centurion Member
From: Adrian, Michigan
Registered: 2009-06-05
Posts: 227

Re: Spray Can Painting project - Huffy Primus

Turned out great!

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#7 2012-12-07 1:34pm

sharpbbb
Pro Member
Registered: 2012-10-06
Posts: 297
For Sale

Re: Spray Can Painting project - Huffy Primus

looks very good cool   
i painted mine black with bodyshop mixed cans and it looks like black chrome, it's all to do with the prep and 2-3 coats of aerosol is equal to 1 coat from a spray  gun.
the secret is with paint is not to rush it wink

Last edited by sharpbbb (2012-12-07 1:36pm)


There's only 1 OG fatgoose 170

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