BMXmuseum.com Forums

You could try this:

http://www.amazon.com/Dri-Wash-Guard-Pr … B0002T8FI8

It's $15 but this is what car and truck dealerships use, it's not the garbage you buy in an auto parts store, this stuff actually works.

I agree, I've used 0000 for a long time and it works great when wet. You mentioned not having the means to dip it, but are almost done with your project. If there's a next time, and it's not real bad, try this:



I've been using it for years and it works great.

Also, make sure you buy quality steel wool, the cheaper brands can be off and may be rougher than labeled.

I'm always a little surprised that people never talk about Bronze wool... There are a few very good reasons to use it.

Steel Wool actually does leave very light swirl marks/fine scratches when used on metal and plated metal. Some guys don't mind and they are quite faint, but you are actually inviting more oxidizing and rust to begin once this has been done.

Bronze wool (because it is softer than metal and plated metals) does not scratch.

Steel Wool itself will begin to oxidize (rust) over time all by itself, and this can cause it to scratch even more. Just the slightest moisture or humidity can cause Steel Wool to begin oxidizing, and it's often hardly noticeable to the naked eye.

I've used a ton of methods to de-rust and polish, but when it comes to steel wool, I will always choose Bronze wool over it for all the above reasons. Just make sure it is "fine" bronze wool. I often use it with a little dab of Mothers polish and it does an amazing job removing rust and polishing at the same time. Just polish away the excess Mothers (once it turns black) with a piano cloth or shammy.

My 2 Abes.

Wheeljack wrote:

They must have changed the formula with that turtle wax, when I used it years ago on my Pro Series it left scratches.

I've used 0000 and glass cleaner for years on car windows.  TBH I've started to question it though after seeing countless little micro scratches on brand new glass.  Before that I always thought the scratches were already there, but not so sure now.

they changed the formula,it used to be a brown and you could smell the amonia in it,and it would dry to a flaky residue..the new stuff is a creamy white and is much better!!

I would never....never.....never use STEEL wool on anything that I did not want to leave fine scratches on (or most Scotch pads for that matter).   In car restoration, we use brass, its much softer than the chrome and far less likely to leave any marks.  Brass brushes with your rust remover of choice works well and leaves no scratches.

I guess its bump ancient threads day

MiniZ wrote:

I am the owl... wrote:

I guess its bump ancient threads day

Its damned if you do and damned if you don't, isn't it?

Newbies get bagged on for not using the search function and asking questions that have been answered a thousand times.

Someone searches, finds a topic they are interested in/have a comment on(without checking the date) and comments on it, bringing it to the top.  Others join in and make it a conversation topic again.

Thats what I was just thinking......

Kind of nice though. It reminded me of my personal favorite banned member, Snap. I got a good laugh going back and reading his posts.

XJguy wrote:

I am the owl... wrote:

NO not really. Asking a valid new question is one thing. Bumping an ancient thread with info that has already been posted in the same thread is another.....

Actually the info shared is that the steel wool does not scratch chrome....that is 100% erroneous.  But if you prefer to have bad info....well then so be it, your da boss.

Actually, the fact that steel wool is bad for chrome and scratches it was covered in post #9 on 6/9/11. That's okay though, it's a long thread, I can see how you missed it.

XJguy wrote:

butcherbobhayes wrote:

XJguy wrote:

Actually the info shared is that the steel wool does not scratch chrome....that is 100% erroneous.  But if you prefer to have bad info....well then so be it, your da boss.

Actually, the fact that steel wool is bad for chrome and scratches it was covered in post #9 on 6/9/11. That's okay though, it's a long thread, I can see how you missed it.

Most of the posts are for steel wool, so a person that offers fist hand experience is wrong to contribute his or her knowledge....I see how things work around here.  Thanks.

Don't worry, I got hung for saying I used steel wool before on rust. They said it damages the chrome. Guess what, if it's rusted the damage is already done in my eyes. I guess 15 years of car restoration is nothing compared to building bicycles. I still use steel wool. I think it works fine. Plus I have never had a customer that has came back saying his chrome has scrathes in it even after they drop +20k on a resto project. Just sayin.

JS-44SDS wrote:

jbrown1168 wrote:

XJguy wrote:

Most of the posts are for steel wool, so a person that offers fist hand experience is wrong to contribute his or her knowledge....I see how things work around here.  Thanks.

Don't worry, I got hung for saying I used steel wool before on rust. They said it damages the chrome. Guess what, if it's rusted the damage is already done in my eyes. I guess 15 years of car restoration is nothing compared to building bicycles. I still use steel wool. I think it works fine. Plus I have never had a customer that has came back saying his chrome has scrathes in it even after they drop +20k on a resto project. Just sayin.

yes there maybe damage BUT when you remove the rust many time you can't see the damage anymore as the pin holes are very small.  BTW I build bikes and have restored cars.  Bikes and cars are different in many ways-some chrome damage on a bike you would see on a nice flat bumper but you wouldn't see it on a piece of chrome tubing.  I use 0000 Steel wool and chrome polish all the time to do it-as long as you know what you're doing it works great and leaves no swirl marks.

I have also used brass wool, OA baths, and other methods.  Depending on what the rust looks like is how I determine what method I use.  Those saying 0000 is bad are dead wrong as those who have seen f/f sets in person can attest.

All of this is true. The reason that I recommend that people don't use it is that most people do not know what they are doing. They just go at it like they are removing some burned food from a pan. Then they end up with ruined chrome and are pissed. Better safe than sorry is how I look at it. I don't want someone giving me hell because I told them to use steel wool.