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Beautiful Mang!

Looks like you thinned out the bridge too....looks very close to the original's size aside from the height.

Excellent work!

my stuff in storage...

Thanks for the compliment....

Yeah I did polish the Suntour parts... another member ( Ernie ) schooled me on how to strip anodizing off of them by using LYE ..... Worked great and they look so much better polished out.

It has been a fun project and has connected me with my youth / BITD fun!!!! I have a love for HUTCH Trick Stars.... It was my favorite stunt vessel!!!

real nice work Matt love the bike.

This is like Hutch Porn... showing off the internal goods!  lol

marked thats bad a$$

i know this is a repost for some people...

i finished this for the calander build off last year....and didnt even get but a few votes 


This is a baseball frame that I saved from the bay for about $100 bucks…..I have always thought that brakes where the most important parts of a flatland bike, especially 80’s flatland.  Even back in the day I ran a drilled and modded fork with a center pull front and center pull rear on my trickstar.  In about 87 there was picture in one of the magazines of my crazy front brake set-up.   Anyway here are some pictures and a detailed description of my build.
Some of the highlights are-
Suntour mountain bike rollercam brakes
Custom milled stem….not just a different stem with a different cap
Custom gyro cables
Custom bottom bracket for the bullseye cranks
Complete restore on tech7 levers
Custom candy apple green powder coat
All aluminum was media blasted then anodized for a flat black finish


The parts.

Hutch trickstar - Frame/Fork
Hutch Mike Dominguez - Bars 
Hutch -Seat
Hutch - Hubs
Hutch – Post
Hutch – Stamped post clamp
Tioga beartrap - Headset
Profile - Bottom Bracket
Bullseye – Cranks
Bullseye – Spider
Sugino – Chainwheel
ACS Z – Rims
Tech7 – Locking Levers
Snafu – Detangler
Opdysee – Tires
Suntour Rollercam – Brakes
Custom Stem
Custom cables




The frame as I received from the bay..


I new from the beginning that I was going to run the Suntour Rollercam brakes…just to do it. They do work well but really are too complicated.  990 are a better solution, but the rollercams are cooler IMO.

I welded a bridge for the rear cable and made up a jig to weld on the 990 mounts






Next came the front brake system….We all know woody had hutch build this for him back in the day…they used a hollow plug (pipe) In the stear tube which was attached to the brake actuator (shinny thing in the middle that moves the arms apart).  The plug was just greased up and slid up and down in the fork.  The actuator was un able to have any articulation and would blind in the rollerbearings.  Remember this was actually designed to float on these roller bearings and be attached to a cable, not be hard mounted to a plug that offers no movement. 
I felt I could do something better….i found a linear bearing that would slid up into the steer tube. This will offer a bearing guided actuation up and down when the lever is pulled eliminating the canting and binding of the plug on the original.  I then mounted the actuator (shinny metal thing) as a floating device with only one hard direction. This lets it float and twist as it speads the arms similar to the original cable design. 







this is a video....you can click on it to watch

[img] [/img]

Next came the stem and head set.  I like the way the 1 1/8 stem looks, and how in functions.  Since I didn’t want to go throught the hassle of building a new fork with a 1 1/8 steer tube, and the cup conversion for the heardset I decieded to build a new headlock/steertube.  I took an old shaft and a steer tube from an old 1 1/8 fork, built a shim and welded them together.  I then took a top nut from the headset and welded it to the steer tube.  This is installed by screwing it on just like a normal top nut or headlock.  Then the 1 1/8 stem slides into place with an old style quill and bolt.  This effectily locks the top nut/ steer tube into place similar to the compression style of the 1 1/8 application.  The stem is then centered and tightened.   












The cranks are 1st Gen Bullseye.  These have an intergrated spindle that measures 22.2 mm.  This makes the bullseye bottom bracket the only option.  Since I don’t like the way it looks, I didn’t want to use this so I bought a new Profile 22mm bottom bracket and milled the inside race to accept the bullseye spindle.  Spins like butter, looks better and its easier to install and maintain.







I also took apart some Tech7 levers and redid them…same finish as the rest of the aluminum…stripped; shot peened then anodized flat black.  I removed the locking levers…cleaned them up and reinstalled them.








The rest are just pics from the build….  Please share your thoughts….it was fun to build something for once…not just bolt stuff together.

Last edited by 01blacks4 (2011-06-08 7:23pm)

4130_nasa wrote:

Interesting Midshooler... How well does that work?  How does that work with a center bolt running through the middle?

Maurice Meyers posted this on vbmx years ago... to clear the air about the secrecy of the Ultimate Hutch brake worked internally. I just happened to save his pics.
http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab26 … am_700.jpg

Well it grabs OK I thinkin about getting a bearing for it or to put a spring in the fork to help it release from the wheel. It goes up well but down not so much.

^^^ +1000 ^^^

4130_nasa wrote:

This is like Hutch Porn... showing off the internal goods!  lol

I guess there not all pink on the inside!

Awesome work here guys!

^^^ you have a sickness my friend... 

MATT JONES wrote:

misc...

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h44 … MG9681.jpg
http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h44 … MG9687.jpg

How Did you do the allen set screw? Thats the last bit to my Pitbull Project.