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JUST PICKED THESE UP FROM A GOOD GUY IN THE BMX WORLD NAMED ANT. 2ND GEN 152MM ORIGINAL COLOR. I ADDED THE GT SPROCKET AND RED BOLTS.

An alternative to Bullseye Spiders or Discs are TA Cyclotourist chainwheels (French company 'TA Specialites' who made the original chainwheels used with Bullseye cranks). They can still sometimes be found on the web if you search, either single or multi-sprocket (using their spider). Just check the BCD is correct.

The cranks have a 22.2mm diameter spindle, recently Bullseye produced new production bottom brackets (euro and US) to fit.

Bullseye Crank ad from BMX Plus, August 86:


For fitting to a mountainbike (Euro) BB you can also use a Shimano MTB FC-M960 or Shimano Dura-Ace SNM-FC7800 BB. You will also need shims so the bearings fit the spindle - they are available if you search.
You could even put this combo into an American BB using a US to Euro adaptor (for instance a 26" Cruiser), but only if your spindle is long enough and it doesn't throw off the chainline too much. The spindles came in different lengths, those noted so far include 6" and 6.25" (longer spindles probably designed for the MTB rather than BMX market).

Bullseye Hurricane 3-piece cranks
178mm length, spindle ~4.5" length from inside of chainwheel plate. Fitted with Durham Elliptical 44t chainwheel and Bullseye euro BB (non-Bullseye euro to US adaptor).





I managed to find the ideal bolts for this crankset - T.A. Ref#86 bolts with 13mm length bushed nuts. They were produced for Cyclotouriste triple chainrings but are perfect for this application as the nuts pass through all 3 components (crank chainwheel plate, chainwheel and spindle plate) and sit almost flush with the inside of the spindle plate and don't interfere with BB positioning. The holes in the three parts are 7mm diameter and 20mm length M7 bolts could alternatively be used if you prefer something more substantial with nylock nuts.

I'm not sure of the intended function of the rubber o-ring, is it meant to go next to the BB to help keep out dirt and water?, or is it meant to go next to the crank arm as pictured to take up any remaining slack between arm and spacer washers (acting as an 'adjustable spacer' when the spindle end-bolt is tightened)? I'll assume the latter, as that is where they are usually shown, plus the cranks came with thin white plastic washers to act as seals. Also the o-rings seem too small a diameter to do much in the way of sealing.

When putting the parts together you need to rotate the spindle to try out the five possible positions between spindle and drive arm - in some positions the spindle splines will not be positioned correctly and you will not be able to align the two crank arms. When I first noticed this I thought something was wrong, but soon discovered I just needed to rotate the spindle to align with a different chainwheel plate hole - it can also be a tight fit to pass the 4 bolts through the 3 component parts (the 5th spindle bolt hole behind the crank arm is not used) so again try any different possible positions too see what works best.

Bullseye 3rd Gen 2-piece cranks (thanks to Mr Coasterbrake below for info.)
184mm length, fitted with Bullseye spider and 2008 production sealed American BB.

Last edited by oldmetal (2010-07-31 6:39am)

*bullseye cranks 2nd gen
*bullseye spider
*bullseye new bb set up

these are my 1st gens. 
171mm






these are my 2nd gens.
178mm

Last edited by vicsta (2012-03-13 7:04am)

Superdavelui copyright

My 1st Gen. I raced when I was 11 and 12 in 1985. I had them bead blasted and painted back black and was able to salvage the original decals to put back. They will go back on my DB Mini Pro I raced back then also. Notice the euro bottom bracket with a fiber type of bearing seal.

OG finish 1st gen Bullseye cranks off of a Bandito Factory rider cruiser. They were original to the bike and new stock with hubs from Bullseye in 1984.









Here are the wheels off the same bike...he was co sponsored by Bullseye.

Last edited by se666 (2013-03-03 11:48pm)